tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4544344301594075252024-03-28T10:39:55.809-06:004D Furniture ThoughtsFurniture Design, Woodworking, Creative Joinery Solutions, and a little process.4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.comBlogger95125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-16270892888390066352024-03-13T17:27:00.003-06:002024-03-15T07:29:49.994-06:00Tension Straps vs Tension Cable<p><span style="font-size: medium;">Iteration is the secret to finding the best solution. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">One solution to locking the geometry of my <a href="https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2024/02/an-improved-tv-tray-table-design.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #f9cb9c;">TV Tray Table</span></a> in both positions is a tension cable between the legs below the pivot bolt. This cable is not ideal, being unorthodox and fussy to install in the design. Using straps at the top as shown in the oak variation works well, and the straps are easy to make and install. This post is about the potential of using straps below the pivot bolt as an alternative to cable down there. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I could visualize how straps might be used down there, but only a mock-up would prove or disprove that the idea works. </span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBNE66KpalzWA3iFLfy9ra_JRW6djWwSrLmSaVhNugpC7Qa1ETXoC7CgSfcc4ODQnZcP1uxByo6DaATBlUTSLyg0oAFtoaFr-DYKFHa2OLA_D8OzhgqtZNz5NkCEH8jaOhYsUrKEBhOTqe90xQwv9XucqQOfhxiJqfkMgDPVeMXGaJoC2l1DsDspkEJ2QX/s2160/low%20strap%20test%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="1620" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBNE66KpalzWA3iFLfy9ra_JRW6djWwSrLmSaVhNugpC7Qa1ETXoC7CgSfcc4ODQnZcP1uxByo6DaATBlUTSLyg0oAFtoaFr-DYKFHa2OLA_D8OzhgqtZNz5NkCEH8jaOhYsUrKEBhOTqe90xQwv9XucqQOfhxiJqfkMgDPVeMXGaJoC2l1DsDspkEJ2QX/s320/low%20strap%20test%201.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Tension Strap in slots</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnygXeh1Isi5Fgk_Xp5Rx3rlXUkhv1qBBAxqaGPOngHVO2OwmpsAIYyQhwiP1UdXntV0rlK0ZyW34jsmXgKgkqrLoX6D7YkLObH3hqQ7PmJ8BRcuMYNVFDkNT0P4gVzF4pYIl4LEOs5lPDRxvJzm5suWjXNiLEMAb25WNOLhCNO-l1wFTen3tDse1pYW5U/s2160/low%20strap%20test%203.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="1620" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnygXeh1Isi5Fgk_Xp5Rx3rlXUkhv1qBBAxqaGPOngHVO2OwmpsAIYyQhwiP1UdXntV0rlK0ZyW34jsmXgKgkqrLoX6D7YkLObH3hqQ7PmJ8BRcuMYNVFDkNT0P4gVzF4pYIl4LEOs5lPDRxvJzm5suWjXNiLEMAb25WNOLhCNO-l1wFTen3tDse1pYW5U/s320/low%20strap%20test%203.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Works in both positions of the table.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">There are grommets in the ends of the strap. They slide into slots and are then pinned in place by intersecting binding bolts. The slot is wider than the strap to allow for the approach angle into the legs. The binding pin acts as a pivot point for the strap so it can adjust/rotate as the legs invert then splay out. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Straps are easy to install or remove. Webbing is inexpensive and available in different colors. The heads of the binding pins can be black or bronze or chrome or brass or gold or likely found in different colors. Imagine if these were available at Target. The straps could be Target red, The bolt heads could be white. A version sold at Home Depot could have orange straps and grey bolt heads. Change to blue and white for those sold at Lowes. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The unique TV tray table design this detail could be used with is shown here: <a href="https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2024/02/an-improved-tv-tray-table-design.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #f9cb9c;">Ash Version</span></a></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">A Version of the table with straps at the top is shown here: <a href="https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2024/03/variations-of-tv-tray-table.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #f9cb9c;">Oak Variation.</span></a></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The design is patented. Contact info on licensing the design can be found at the bottom of both the above links. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Question or comments are encouraged!</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4D</span></p>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-91855602868951339172024-03-09T05:26:00.006-06:002024-03-13T02:04:07.112-06:00Variations of a TV Tray Table<p><span style="font-size: medium;">Iteration is the secret to the best solutions. A patent was granted for my folding tray table design. It was about the geometry that allows it to be horizontal in one position or slanted down in another. This is a variation using the same geometry but with different details.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><span style="font-size: medium;">The top on this version has front rounded corners. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzSU78jcagXuUrhB2QPxeaBc7-qQoAVkPkrlRgCmb3IY8n5CmxIft8YaCp1Z6j_a13tmmZ2RekEQbaHux_FgdUiozURnrGyc2rqgdJYg4zxfuNs0mFYsDaGl9a5v1bieGFV2xzD8dN1NAn1D-x4vbuXJWslFC8hw9LKJpEi2XQBqjzYMufcK4kuHa8TBTH/s1807/new%20strap%20design.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1807" data-original-width="1369" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzSU78jcagXuUrhB2QPxeaBc7-qQoAVkPkrlRgCmb3IY8n5CmxIft8YaCp1Z6j_a13tmmZ2RekEQbaHux_FgdUiozURnrGyc2rqgdJYg4zxfuNs0mFYsDaGl9a5v1bieGFV2xzD8dN1NAn1D-x4vbuXJWslFC8hw9LKJpEi2XQBqjzYMufcK4kuHa8TBTH/s320/new%20strap%20design.jpg" width="242" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Red Oak. Slanted top.</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The side legs have a slight curve rather than a jog in them to reach the offset bolt connection required so the design folds flat.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUZ_ns1CpxDswuRUEEhs96UIDW910xDzriV0g-8I7BeQw1mPLIMTYthA8UJibBqJpnCO8Y8B-P8QjHti8rwDJiDWDafiwPihtPHLzXPtlUqwkVIsO_CiHGnC9bIZWpwNfz8WMI6omDPVxspXMCCTqQqV0PDdbmMd2V2ks4mPaXRn7HWN3_Xu1LIcSpmTxn/s2160/Oak%20version%20flat%20top.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="1620" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUZ_ns1CpxDswuRUEEhs96UIDW910xDzriV0g-8I7BeQw1mPLIMTYthA8UJibBqJpnCO8Y8B-P8QjHti8rwDJiDWDafiwPihtPHLzXPtlUqwkVIsO_CiHGnC9bIZWpwNfz8WMI6omDPVxspXMCCTqQqV0PDdbmMd2V2ks4mPaXRn7HWN3_Xu1LIcSpmTxn/s320/Oak%20version%20flat%20top.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Flipped over. Top flat.<br /><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">This table was my initial crude prototype, and suffered through 3 iterations before appearing here in its best form. Ball chain was what I initially used as the tension member that went between the front and back legs. Ball chain proved to be unpredictable in strength and prone to breaking apart. One inch wide strapping at the top is my second approach. First try with the straps found that due to the unique geometry they needed a unique path. The path they took needed to leave the legs the same distance apart in both positions. A new path was found that works. A replacement top stretcher was made. Two straps run between the center of the back edge and the middle of the top stretcher. Binding pins through grommets in the ends of the straps lock them into slots. </span><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQgtJWI3fyeO0Gufg5TbzOELbNYY-wnaIy69t5XLXmsZjxmXQnW3AdV8uSCnap16JT82fKFBL3EwJl1xJCWEUkpGveKApdgNj6sDcfUUxTHg-LCGLmxvTu7sf6Um1SkQlNDIBrmqsEkwM-GDW3XmJcvC_lBe42UgKoocsYUxZyyRT9W-KREqlBRnUfINlf/s1869/new%20strap%20design%204.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1869" data-original-width="1345" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQgtJWI3fyeO0Gufg5TbzOELbNYY-wnaIy69t5XLXmsZjxmXQnW3AdV8uSCnap16JT82fKFBL3EwJl1xJCWEUkpGveKApdgNj6sDcfUUxTHg-LCGLmxvTu7sf6Um1SkQlNDIBrmqsEkwM-GDW3XmJcvC_lBe42UgKoocsYUxZyyRT9W-KREqlBRnUfINlf/s320/new%20strap%20design%204.jpg" width="230" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Straps into back edge</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span><span style="font-size: medium;">The table transposes with the leg frame pulled through and the top flipped over. In the image below you can see the straps running over then into the top stretcher. When in the flat position the straps run directly into the stretcher. </span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgROiArPOkr8Ph2v88ZWyXtip7sKehtLz6tGgUSuUyk5rtavsLmUZ6k6gGuwjSfCvD4SNByK16bKdpxxxtuZdkG6HikjdSmQZCudPmJyFpe_O2CfoQavPTuAGZdx1YPyLUYD-oOdzXt0w-CtvPMydq0t42__Yco3lGqcKbufLII90A-q7JKwwaObV2xOYN2/s2160/lid%20up%20slanted.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="1620" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgROiArPOkr8Ph2v88ZWyXtip7sKehtLz6tGgUSuUyk5rtavsLmUZ6k6gGuwjSfCvD4SNByK16bKdpxxxtuZdkG6HikjdSmQZCudPmJyFpe_O2CfoQavPTuAGZdx1YPyLUYD-oOdzXt0w-CtvPMydq0t42__Yco3lGqcKbufLII90A-q7JKwwaObV2xOYN2/s320/lid%20up%20slanted.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Over and into the stretcher side.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggHkr4xlyXIv2fLd0iOCne1l4uUFC8hE3pfqYt-TiQiEhyphenhyphenL_2nRBArAIlxHJGNeMSRMZqrWjoxQaa_SQiTjVH0BkrXwOra1fQ8F4nl39rASBqphzVf_NO_rK4TrCvPu6dhHe9lWIWc00Apk37_eN7LZ160HSWBpEapaCFYQ-WW9DS_sjSGL-zbzd9OEit9/s4054/lid%20up%20flat.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4054" data-original-width="2681" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggHkr4xlyXIv2fLd0iOCne1l4uUFC8hE3pfqYt-TiQiEhyphenhyphenL_2nRBArAIlxHJGNeMSRMZqrWjoxQaa_SQiTjVH0BkrXwOra1fQ8F4nl39rASBqphzVf_NO_rK4TrCvPu6dhHe9lWIWc00Apk37_eN7LZ160HSWBpEapaCFYQ-WW9DS_sjSGL-zbzd9OEit9/s320/lid%20up%20flat.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Straight into the stretcher side.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The same unique geometry is expressed in this version with different materials, different details, and different tensioning strategies. Iteration.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">This version is mostly red oak. My alternative version is here: <a href="https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2024/02/an-improved-tv-tray-table-design.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #f9cb9c;">Made from Ash wood</span></a></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">This design is patented. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">For information about licensing the design please contact:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Sarah Nolting<br />Licensing Associate<br />Kansas State University Innovation Partners<br />(785) 532-3910<br />snolting@ksu.edu<br /><a href="http://www.k-state.edu/innovation-partners">www.k-state.edu/innovation-partners</a></span><br /> </span></p><br /></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-55953374975483992872024-02-27T14:45:00.001-06:002024-03-05T20:39:47.989-06:00An Ancient Light Wedge for Back Lighting Slides<p><span style="font-size: medium;">Before digital photos arrived, film was used to capture images. There were two basic options for the type of film used including negatives for producing printed photos, and positives for mounting in a frame and projecting with a slide projector. For preparing a slide show to present to a class or audience reviewing the slides it took some creativity. To quickly view and choose the slides you wanted to use, a backlit light table was one option. They weren't portable or that common. Handheld gadgets you could place a slide on/in to backlight the slide and sometime magnify the captured image to view were also an option. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3q7Aq5VgmLRXcOQy8drZEdbrwOMXLj-0x85bnk3kI6tvPoinjoAQX5Rw0lOJOdXi-Gf1h_EbAi_JuJl52VvVS6FLEnEzb6EpCx_274ENupBgfwSi2XGP_7mH9gqMduchtMKKnexA0TknmgAu8UVLlWMdfC1i891LuEPhbAdAccck6qAPyenDof2drjI5/s1529/lit%20up%20dark%201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1206" data-original-width="1529" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3q7Aq5VgmLRXcOQy8drZEdbrwOMXLj-0x85bnk3kI6tvPoinjoAQX5Rw0lOJOdXi-Gf1h_EbAi_JuJl52VvVS6FLEnEzb6EpCx_274ENupBgfwSi2XGP_7mH9gqMduchtMKKnexA0TknmgAu8UVLlWMdfC1i891LuEPhbAdAccck6qAPyenDof2drjI5/s320/lit%20up%20dark%201.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">When I was in college I kept my slides in plastic notebook sheets designed for that purpose. To quickly view a page at a time I made this light wedge. Wedged so it could slip between sheets while still in the notebook. A single incandescent light tube provided the backlight.</span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbpsL_gF23Lr-Py0KVrZ4VoysH3Baq2L2vKMklKWK0QmCsya184xm0-kV6gbggMMVuShy-IpSWhqM3esJwT7stkZljEejNv1Z8MJfa0hnkfOhnV_uofzHtcJEYFlw1DoJTubnCHdLbBR7luEyL5UKOFnNAa5gB6TZ5_Mc15YsQmdfZL4sRe9Z-VYSfF12D/s1647/open%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1416" data-original-width="1647" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbpsL_gF23Lr-Py0KVrZ4VoysH3Baq2L2vKMklKWK0QmCsya184xm0-kV6gbggMMVuShy-IpSWhqM3esJwT7stkZljEejNv1Z8MJfa0hnkfOhnV_uofzHtcJEYFlw1DoJTubnCHdLbBR7luEyL5UKOFnNAa5gB6TZ5_Mc15YsQmdfZL4sRe9Z-VYSfF12D/s320/open%201.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Slid Open</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The bulb put off heat though. Although there were vent holes for the heat to escape through I found I couldn't use the wedge for more than 10 minutes or so before turning it off to cool down. Longer than that and the built up heat would warp the frosted plastic cover. </span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB9kKxMBuNQCf4x4VptHMOjddNgOCh-Psphx_dOBswpmY05dQf7tbfMbJPprWeCpjDNdGB60ka77xyRnt95dDMDcSAWXW9nHL_4OmPPGYqxj-abiNcr-ry7lvr23r9GAoLeZKjcr6eqQHKfd_0m4pvRtaA34csIK-Q1ABPrs-rBKb6Y_vrMUWkFEj79L33/s903/lit%20up%203.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="751" data-original-width="903" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB9kKxMBuNQCf4x4VptHMOjddNgOCh-Psphx_dOBswpmY05dQf7tbfMbJPprWeCpjDNdGB60ka77xyRnt95dDMDcSAWXW9nHL_4OmPPGYqxj-abiNcr-ry7lvr23r9GAoLeZKjcr6eqQHKfd_0m4pvRtaA34csIK-Q1ABPrs-rBKb6Y_vrMUWkFEj79L33/s320/lit%20up%203.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;">The frosted plastic cover did a better job of spreading the light than it seems in the first image above shot.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I still have a couple notebooks full of slides I took. Somewhere. They include some black and white photo negatives I mounted in slide frames. I used negatives to project onto 50% gray poster board to then sketch over to make pseudo-realistic posters. I'd color over the dark areas with a white pencil, and color over the light areas with a black pencil. That was my secret for the posters I would submit with my furniture designs when sent to competitions. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">I would make an updated version of this light wedge using cooler LED strips, but there are thin LED light panels already available that could be used. This wedge light is destined for a yard sale. </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7jpO1YrkwlvG3_0Gem66M8IcEu-kEq9aJlR7-dSJDy5HP4JIaFd8nGJB3X187CdPQ9L0UDCdOIwOw_bleqazJ2lSsB9lZ0fYjeSAbd1noIyaAKZ5Lk5VtNIT4cTvIGy1KX99g-Owcj63WSXdNNc9DmLbnPRi_cIsqOC9JZAYz71td-BSccrtY7lpOEDxW/s1893/closed%20front%20view.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1355" data-original-width="1893" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7jpO1YrkwlvG3_0Gem66M8IcEu-kEq9aJlR7-dSJDy5HP4JIaFd8nGJB3X187CdPQ9L0UDCdOIwOw_bleqazJ2lSsB9lZ0fYjeSAbd1noIyaAKZ5Lk5VtNIT4cTvIGy1KX99g-Owcj63WSXdNNc9DmLbnPRi_cIsqOC9JZAYz71td-BSccrtY7lpOEDxW/s320/closed%20front%20view.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx4sy6xmxIVhX1k_eVH7HOtmDf5KfkCLKS8g6rQ-KwDoJp8AC5C4uISkE2xzWeg2eFOfx-utN0eOqhnQGOg9ixfWcTEpJI_1DXQYzGZk5M5d1itt1WDGL39AklZx75ecOSNHs4QtKqyTeFW42drl8HTeziccg5fMolu0WQ0gaOdmZRJ1PApWLzjBvt50_5/s1802/rear%20view%20higher.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1243" data-original-width="1802" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx4sy6xmxIVhX1k_eVH7HOtmDf5KfkCLKS8g6rQ-KwDoJp8AC5C4uISkE2xzWeg2eFOfx-utN0eOqhnQGOg9ixfWcTEpJI_1DXQYzGZk5M5d1itt1WDGL39AklZx75ecOSNHs4QtKqyTeFW42drl8HTeziccg5fMolu0WQ0gaOdmZRJ1PApWLzjBvt50_5/s320/rear%20view%20higher.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Switch and Handle</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Somewhere I have an ancient slide projector. If I can find it a trip down memory lane is inevitable. Hopefully my slides are in the same box as the slide projector, buried somewhere in my house or garage. </span><p></p><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D</span></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-90113679490025817212024-02-24T10:13:00.018-06:002024-03-11T17:34:48.705-06:00An Improved TV Tray Table Design!<p><span style="font-size: medium;">There is a dated X frame wood TV tray table design out there, available many places. I have one, bought from my local Target store. Trying it out I was appalled at how poor the ergonomics of it are. This disappointment spurred my creative genes to design a simple version that solves every complaint I have with the original. In my iterative sketching process I stumbled upon a geometry that allows the design to be turned inside out to serve in two useful positions.</span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzYPAuXVcKqGuObupg-dclN3cYkHqEh5TAFjlBuNo3Vbp1yS443qsQBjtVqQVqdqU8aJGHl18tnA2Ae27ci2et_1flpiRULfZ9OeY2wW1LwpK5sdkkszwEfQWME18vK8ghVv6gV4AHdPRBiGf13v0ED0ULICBOoNoKkwwKwiTYi2YXGm1oFXmANJWlmJN/s1467/Ash%20t4b.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1433" data-original-width="1467" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzYPAuXVcKqGuObupg-dclN3cYkHqEh5TAFjlBuNo3Vbp1yS443qsQBjtVqQVqdqU8aJGHl18tnA2Ae27ci2et_1flpiRULfZ9OeY2wW1LwpK5sdkkszwEfQWME18vK8ghVv6gV4AHdPRBiGf13v0ED0ULICBOoNoKkwwKwiTYi2YXGm1oFXmANJWlmJN/s320/Ash%20t4b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Slanted Top</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">My design is patented.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>In one position the top is slanted </span>with a stop lip on the front edge. Musician? A place for your manuscript paper when jotting down a tune. Have a tablet? A better eyeline to see it when using it. A good place for note or sketch pad, and your pen/pencil can park on the protruding ledge. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Turn the table inside out (flip the top and pull the leg frame through) and the top ends up horizontal for your lunch tray or laptop or solitaire card game. </span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLpA9Ak5uYbyzlL2CRYDE6K1wYp2WPTSd75dFX-PO3t28fHfrznEoWR1uLlAXNs4JDEDPOvJ7t-u-LtL4rg7IXcU7KEfEH6TFrX1zpOlmF13yBKCimdMQZfnit7morlCTSmx1KCvdWLIfv_NbGUND0fox3Lt5MVuzMynWYP8RVm9-PDoYOyY5-lqh8kuzx/s1528/Ash%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1528" data-original-width="1355" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLpA9Ak5uYbyzlL2CRYDE6K1wYp2WPTSd75dFX-PO3t28fHfrznEoWR1uLlAXNs4JDEDPOvJ7t-u-LtL4rg7IXcU7KEfEH6TFrX1zpOlmF13yBKCimdMQZfnit7morlCTSmx1KCvdWLIfv_NbGUND0fox3Lt5MVuzMynWYP8RVm9-PDoYOyY5-lqh8kuzx/s320/Ash%201.jpg" width="284" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Horizontal Top</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">You'll appreciate the ergonomics of my design in either position. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">The bottom stretcher on the original is too low to slip my feet under. My design moves the bottom stretcher up. It also beefs up the size of the stretchers for a more rigid frame. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">The legs on mine are spread out to the edges of the top for more leg space between them. </span><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLysCQbc6BqOSW2X82nGWQuCYFc5FxSw6hbI1YzQ8HAZggailO-VKGGDBJaKhcKmEK86WqkPv6JNQh0p1M3PlRQZuHHTIkuxMnnqeLjh-zmWxLJoXuwL21hVe2Hb4uKsN_EwOR6Ku6nWTGtChz6Jrw6H5fXWdWz_sHpokJoK0ov25RC_DE5kqge2e8_04r/s1748/Side%20by%20side%20-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1186" data-original-width="1748" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLysCQbc6BqOSW2X82nGWQuCYFc5FxSw6hbI1YzQ8HAZggailO-VKGGDBJaKhcKmEK86WqkPv6JNQh0p1M3PlRQZuHHTIkuxMnnqeLjh-zmWxLJoXuwL21hVe2Hb4uKsN_EwOR6Ku6nWTGtChz6Jrw6H5fXWdWz_sHpokJoK0ov25RC_DE5kqge2e8_04r/s320/Side%20by%20side%20-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Side by Side</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The asymmetric X of my design allows swing space for knees, and easier access and egress from being seated at this table. It also allows pulling the table closer to you when seated in a chair. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi32I9cq8yD0gz3tlU9ipK_b9Dy_0iaIHAh-l4Nqchsu0xRFLvd-6V-6zHEF9g4t3tpT-mdKFydHzWGtj8d2FP92VnVna6En1Nnk-uojhE4-5jhzZA0xtPTa_VxTZ3OwPsQBrRzrrd4JbVpeVIH3XjvBJgZc9widecky-ztEHJHw6tJoeSBPg-D_mK8zo-L/s1662/Side%20by%20side%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1662" data-original-width="1575" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi32I9cq8yD0gz3tlU9ipK_b9Dy_0iaIHAh-l4Nqchsu0xRFLvd-6V-6zHEF9g4t3tpT-mdKFydHzWGtj8d2FP92VnVna6En1Nnk-uojhE4-5jhzZA0xtPTa_VxTZ3OwPsQBrRzrrd4JbVpeVIH3XjvBJgZc9widecky-ztEHJHw6tJoeSBPg-D_mK8zo-L/s320/Side%20by%20side%201.jpg" width="303" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Knee Space</span></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><div><p><span style="font-size: medium;">My design uses a simple tension cable uniquely routed to lock the geometry in both positions. This option is between the front and back legs. A tension strap could instead be attached to the back edge of the top and the top stretcher. Shown here in another prototype of mine: </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje5Myc88VsdOCxp4JGjadYroX3HTBu68QVQPBlpKpVpQGHJJymgv7raVG1uHjSMJHpuKhnQBThdvvddSo29lWRPRu_se1fA4R7Qwsg_3sXsWq4mr_Yn4-Yed-SD3dVMDa_UViEY4kniEgmTqK4j-Jpu4IR0RR3x38AnYxcIJk1w7Tnpir7Yi0p2E4RBk3E/s2160/Strap%20version%20underside%20view.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="1620" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje5Myc88VsdOCxp4JGjadYroX3HTBu68QVQPBlpKpVpQGHJJymgv7raVG1uHjSMJHpuKhnQBThdvvddSo29lWRPRu_se1fA4R7Qwsg_3sXsWq4mr_Yn4-Yed-SD3dVMDa_UViEY4kniEgmTqK4j-Jpu4IR0RR3x38AnYxcIJk1w7Tnpir7Yi0p2E4RBk3E/s320/Strap%20version%20underside%20view.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">One inch straps</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">This red oak version can be found here: <a href="https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2024/03/variations-of-tv-tray-table.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #f9cb9c;"> Red oak table</span></a></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">My design folds up flat for efficient packaging or storage. A simple rack to hold 4 or 6 or 8 tables would be easy to make and have a small footprint. </span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqjqiTTytTaYKkOo3uZ8icAnIER0BUc1IS8x85flq8fCY9GW-thyphenhyphenZORKKa0Gb9FB1ASf4ftoVy4eIK3nVj-hCDAnIDZn8JQA51BuJS6ETmTnqXqj7XIvB1-agrUD-zQJPkvfaY3I86BB0lv-73GjBnUiQUerIvxrFk1wfqnC3jR1H7df1i_Rr_dtfWizCD/s3682/Ash%20f4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1186" data-original-width="3682" height="103" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqjqiTTytTaYKkOo3uZ8icAnIER0BUc1IS8x85flq8fCY9GW-thyphenhyphenZORKKa0Gb9FB1ASf4ftoVy4eIK3nVj-hCDAnIDZn8JQA51BuJS6ETmTnqXqj7XIvB1-agrUD-zQJPkvfaY3I86BB0lv-73GjBnUiQUerIvxrFk1wfqnC3jR1H7df1i_Rr_dtfWizCD/s320/Ash%20f4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Two Inches Thick</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">This table </span><span style="font-size: medium;">is a simple example of 4th dimension design. It </span><span style="font-size: medium;">can serve the owner in slanted or horizontal configurations, or be flat for storage or packing at different </span><i><span style="font-size: medium;">times</span></i><span style="font-size: medium;">. Time being the 4th dimension. </span></div><div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">You can pick up the table to move it by simply reaching under the center of the sides and holding the legs against the top as you pick it up. Or by picking it up from the center of the top stretcher. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The wood top could have an added value inlay to appeal to specific audiences. Team logos, family crests, sports icons, company brands/logos, etc.. Something unique on each side perhaps. Customize it for each client for an added fee. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">It can also vary in finished detail. One may have bullnosed front and back edges like the example above. Another might have the front corners radiused with a squared edge wrapping from side to front to other side. The back edge still rounded over as shown below.</span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2dvwB9kqLjNq2IVkFLNboXK6Q8VjOORQ_NumWiB1YuP0YLzV7QJWFxWxXP4W6vO663Harv6bnYK6tN7jE8igQjYwXnpxZkIDH4ME2hS3QO8eICPaDjvae5A7rSnhybXk1312jxRBHbdG6X0x4ieANaTHLDHYChWtB9WbqW7cS_pomjTaCf0fWShNoDlr0/s1645/oak%20top%20front%20corner%20view.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1106" data-original-width="1645" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2dvwB9kqLjNq2IVkFLNboXK6Q8VjOORQ_NumWiB1YuP0YLzV7QJWFxWxXP4W6vO663Harv6bnYK6tN7jE8igQjYwXnpxZkIDH4ME2hS3QO8eICPaDjvae5A7rSnhybXk1312jxRBHbdG6X0x4ieANaTHLDHYChWtB9WbqW7cS_pomjTaCf0fWShNoDlr0/s320/oak%20top%20front%20corner%20view.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Red Oak Top Alternative</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg04O-70uEDTOOte5K2HTZAeJWDsMQO5EqvIUQflEWh71VrhjUe1rbsT4PUPrIBs4vf5vrkQ_DnooyFlGlQWsmOZy2tg2mzudoyL8dqVOixxHPV21F6V6shrM__6ITVD24u3c0Y-6_rUQ2qJVO3WA6Vi1VMGsuaXvGFMX_hr-Pw3yCnPIjUOGPc0Lq-xnQH/s1507/Oak%20top%20corner%20detail%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="1507" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg04O-70uEDTOOte5K2HTZAeJWDsMQO5EqvIUQflEWh71VrhjUe1rbsT4PUPrIBs4vf5vrkQ_DnooyFlGlQWsmOZy2tg2mzudoyL8dqVOixxHPV21F6V6shrM__6ITVD24u3c0Y-6_rUQ2qJVO3WA6Vi1VMGsuaXvGFMX_hr-Pw3yCnPIjUOGPc0Lq-xnQH/s320/Oak%20top%20corner%20detail%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Rear Corner Detail</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The stop ledge can be made from a matching wood or contrasting wood to emphasize it's presence. It could even be a strip of aluminum or brass or something more exotic. Bronze or black oxide or chrome or powder coated bolts in just about any color are options to consider. There are also hardware options out there for how to connect the legs and table top. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>This design is patented. </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;">For information about licensing the design please contact:</span></p><span style="font-size: medium;">Sarah Nolting<br />Licensing Associate<br />Kansas State University Innovation Partners<br />(785) 532-3910<br />snolting@ksu.edu<br /><a href="http://www.k-state.edu/innovation-partners">www.k-state.edu/innovation-partners</a></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Comments and questions I encourage and appreciate. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D</span></div></div></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-23266245874785205192024-02-17T06:00:00.007-06:002024-02-25T22:25:01.402-06:00Using Square Nuts for Connections in Knock-Down Projects<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjbDCSc-wfVfe0npXUhE0RDWpogD_F6LMpF5piyUpLCFKjJ4w-xfR1Pg3O5Xwd67FzGmuVznNFPZaPvWJCLezAZwQOBaBewdnBQv0q2IpqjURJK0pWnyyhCWATv3GaHZ5mQ3hZf0wrqJ2GKHRfaBNTn-rMkpHmsM-VW03fDsYDfH5tzXTvU3kB8gGy-7Pk/s706/Square%20Nut%20vs%20Barrel%20Nut.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="669" data-original-width="706" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjbDCSc-wfVfe0npXUhE0RDWpogD_F6LMpF5piyUpLCFKjJ4w-xfR1Pg3O5Xwd67FzGmuVznNFPZaPvWJCLezAZwQOBaBewdnBQv0q2IpqjURJK0pWnyyhCWATv3GaHZ5mQ3hZf0wrqJ2GKHRfaBNTn-rMkpHmsM-VW03fDsYDfH5tzXTvU3kB8gGy-7Pk/s320/Square%20Nut%20vs%20Barrel%20Nut.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Barrel Nuts vs Square Nuts?</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">A classic solution to bolt wood parts together is to use a barrel nut (aka cross dowel) to insert threads for bolts to thread into. Using a drill press you can make a perfect hole for the barrel nut. Barrel nuts are relatively pricey compared to standard hex or square nuts. If you have a CNC though it is possible to embed square nuts for threads rather than barrel nuts. The pocket for a square nut can be made with a 1/8" spiral upcut router bit. An optimum shape for such a pocket can be found using these drafting steps:</span><p></p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgOb7xZ6pqbBn1Xg0cbDXimbn4xJhBEwzizbp8riDZYLeqbT5NZ_cqDRBImrOYlwM4gkhr7luiF1swAPP_3_T1pRe2_4-bAGs9Wz8zA_aZ9-Up1vYuy7TAJfaLmkJNJ-L_0Ka0S44byeJ11CZlkGC6P6PH4afTd8K85ogCdmScoQK8z6slOjoJDoL8jo246" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="350" data-original-width="1217" height="92" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgOb7xZ6pqbBn1Xg0cbDXimbn4xJhBEwzizbp8riDZYLeqbT5NZ_cqDRBImrOYlwM4gkhr7luiF1swAPP_3_T1pRe2_4-bAGs9Wz8zA_aZ9-Up1vYuy7TAJfaLmkJNJ-L_0Ka0S44byeJ11CZlkGC6P6PH4afTd8K85ogCdmScoQK8z6slOjoJDoL8jo246" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Making a pocket for a square nut</span>.</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">From left to right in the image above:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">1. Know the dimensions of your nut. A digital caliper is a handy tool to keep near your CNC.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">2. The critical shape to use is the top rectangular view of the nut. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">3. In each corner draw a circle the diameter of the bit you'll be using. I usually use a 1/8"d spiral upcut bit.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4. Draw in the diagonal lines from corner to opposing corner. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">5. Where the diagonal lines cross the initial circles, center another 1/8" circle. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">6. You can delete the diagonal lines and initial corner circles.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">7. Trim away the inner sections of each circle, and the corner of the rectangle where they cross the circle line. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Make sure all the vectors are joined, and you've got a vector shape you can pocket out to sink that square nut into. Although my software (Aspire from Vectric.com) has a dogbone tool it doesn't make corners optimized to leave the most flat surface for the nut. These steps do. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I buy square nuts from McMaster Carr. I prefer using stainless steel nuts as they won't rust if the wood has a high moisture content.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">To cover the square nut a simpler rounded rectangle shape pocket above the nut can be filled with a CNC cut plug. One example of an inserted square nut:</span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjBCp1JN3SkjMn_plPlFs_01FPWK8VxrfAtoD5HWDKU9s5sHCwCmneFGrDOgV0za8NuSVjSQNDRn0JtjfUBfLgt7byAqD25WvpPwtQKD_c_VpTGKZ0uhoDoQfPomCz8XLSEdA7eFZn_N18aJVlVeFoRULkG6JBBTV7HYG7-VrPc3wcbFaVeffV8GfossiA/s963/With%20plug%20pocket.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="963" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjBCp1JN3SkjMn_plPlFs_01FPWK8VxrfAtoD5HWDKU9s5sHCwCmneFGrDOgV0za8NuSVjSQNDRn0JtjfUBfLgt7byAqD25WvpPwtQKD_c_VpTGKZ0uhoDoQfPomCz8XLSEdA7eFZn_N18aJVlVeFoRULkG6JBBTV7HYG7-VrPc3wcbFaVeffV8GfossiA/s320/With%20plug%20pocket.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Embedded Square Nut</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I've seen many CNC cut slots made to access hex nuts in plywood or other sheet goods. In most there is a little room around the nut for the tips of needle nosed plyers to keep the nut from spinning while tightening or loosening the connection. Using a square nut and a snug fitting CNC cut pocket the nut won't spin. A side benefit is that you won't have to worry about the orientation of the nut. Using barrel nuts you do. </span><p></p><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D</span></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-24231685947994524072024-01-09T17:14:00.009-06:002024-03-20T07:26:57.172-06:00Fast Food Mishap Solutions<p><span style="font-size: medium;">Not often, but I do occasionally pick up a burger and fries for lunch or dinner from any of the assorted establishments in my town. I always set the sack of food on the passenger seat, and usually remember to hold it there when I'm braking or turning. Last trip I was distracted with snowy street conditions and forgot to hold the sack when I braked at a corner. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Thanks to <a href="https://www.britannica.com/science/Newtons-laws-of-motion" target="_blank"><span style="color: #f9cb9c;">Newton's first law</span></a> the fries found a new home on the passenger side floor. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Vowing never to have to worry about this again I've come up with two potential solutions. The first is a simple cardboard box to place the food sack into. Fast food sacks are usually 5" x 7" or 3.5" x 5". This box is sized for the larger sack, but has a removable divider to partition it for smaller sacks. It also has a flap that tucks between seat and back which keeps the box in place and contents upright. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgLvyyBk6QM2tlefpsjUXMhPsgqDBLxEcvC8x2IQQ2xDCvNle2pIRXPZdyccHtrXuXI2E_PZq-JhRXoaBkHgmlBTL-8Ej8YRaLD6tWTcfn7fmemiP2at8dk8vD7sM8GVYSjsD2Otoqk8Hv5pduocBq1oXED0gq3hhqxRU1GSBkEinsUDviX8yPUkPmQmwqY" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="673" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgLvyyBk6QM2tlefpsjUXMhPsgqDBLxEcvC8x2IQQ2xDCvNle2pIRXPZdyccHtrXuXI2E_PZq-JhRXoaBkHgmlBTL-8Ej8YRaLD6tWTcfn7fmemiP2at8dk8vD7sM8GVYSjsD2Otoqk8Hv5pduocBq1oXED0gq3hhqxRU1GSBkEinsUDviX8yPUkPmQmwqY" width="225" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /> Another bug is that sacks often open up. On cold days they will lose heat quicker if open. This solution keeps the sack closed and hangs on for cornering and braking. A 2" strap and a chip clip. Held between seat back and head rest with a 1" dowel the strap wraps around. I can adjust the strap length if needed. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgyrdyWn_GEp-wVgPH5EnesRmwjosGRSnE-WYl3KHqKDB5u9UqN1SJWEgUp74T_K0CsSLRBlgu1xX5JXuv53u-vgTIEWCdW8IbUv9CBQeSS6JlOx9FhtCWF_qY2_Kf8e-qMb2GJ732jyVaZnj9o1EjbrwqiTBoguZgaw49nEDaMBXqjIvZoJuleywDobTyB" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgyrdyWn_GEp-wVgPH5EnesRmwjosGRSnE-WYl3KHqKDB5u9UqN1SJWEgUp74T_K0CsSLRBlgu1xX5JXuv53u-vgTIEWCdW8IbUv9CBQeSS6JlOx9FhtCWF_qY2_Kf8e-qMb2GJ732jyVaZnj9o1EjbrwqiTBoguZgaw49nEDaMBXqjIvZoJuleywDobTyB" width="180" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />The best solution may be a combination of both ideas. A smaller chip clip could be left in the box to use with each acquired meal. Pinch the top of the sack closed to retain any heat while also keeping the sack from tipping over or sliding off the seat. </span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I noticed among my camera gear an old but fancy camera strap. It has pivoting clips on both ends. It wouldn't be hard to clip one end to a chip clip, and the built-in length adjustability would be useful. I ordered a couple nice straps, and have another chip clip I can use. The old tan strapping needs replacing and the new straps will class up the prototypes. <br /></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"> <br /></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I can confirm that the cardboard box idea works as intended. Simply drop the sack of food into the box and it'll stay in place and upright. I suggest making it 1/4" larger though. I can also confirm that the chip clip strap works. A tiny bit fussy to get the sack of food clipped shut and hanging though. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4D</span></p></div></div></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-66206290364158447652024-01-01T05:11:00.001-06:002024-01-06T20:15:59.205-06:00A Flashlight Stand. Not all Projects are Complex. <p><span style="font-size: medium;">I bought a new pickup truck. Then I b</span><span style="font-size: medium;">ought a set of side step rails to install on it. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">To install the brackets for the rails I h</span><span style="font-size: medium;">ad to crawl under the truck</span><span style="font-size: medium;">. It was d</span><span style="font-size: medium;">ark under there but I had a flashlight.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I needed both hands to install the brackets, and holding the flashlight so I could see the working area was a challenge. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I needed a base to mount the flashlight in so it would stay upright and aimed. </span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdN26ZNgSLtNegrwVsi3dTeFp8ivtV6bgieoLDOLFUYhak_ILUdVibQ2MfoOk2HY-Sj0_l1sM7MBVMvJiz7rRg1e6X8VI0jgoPbc1HcG3Pq0AWiZQz7Wjr1Ffj09UpT2EvtjR3pCkHCVDJ_6aS3tMzopVmhyphenhyphenxzQfP3g5_Sz_0MNubv7vaguG8OOTzJ7Vil/s894/flashlight%20%20stand.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="847" data-original-width="894" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdN26ZNgSLtNegrwVsi3dTeFp8ivtV6bgieoLDOLFUYhak_ILUdVibQ2MfoOk2HY-Sj0_l1sM7MBVMvJiz7rRg1e6X8VI0jgoPbc1HcG3Pq0AWiZQz7Wjr1Ffj09UpT2EvtjR3pCkHCVDJ_6aS3tMzopVmhyphenhyphenxzQfP3g5_Sz_0MNubv7vaguG8OOTzJ7Vil/s320/flashlight%20%20stand.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Scrap of wood. 15 degree hole.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Nothing pretty. A scrap of wood left over from a previous project. Unusual shape, but a good weight and broad footprint to keep the flashlight from easily being knocked over. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I used my CNC with my adjustable angle clamping fixture to hold the board at 15 degrees from horizontal. The hole was just a bit larger than the base of the flashlight so I could line it with some cork. The cork provides a good friction fit so the flashlight stays in place. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2016/04/advanced-compound-angle-cnc-clamping.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #f1c232;">My Adjustable Clamping Fixture.</span></a> </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Simple. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Useful.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4D</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></p><p><br /></p>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-5928219436891108702023-11-16T09:22:00.000-06:002023-11-16T09:22:00.554-06:00Extending Table Legs. A CNC Cut End Grain Finger Joint<p><span style="font-size: medium;"> I've got a short Parson's table with 2" square solid wood legs. The table would be more useful if it was 6" taller, but that would require stretching or replacing the legs. Or would it?</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The is a rendering of a CNC cut finger joint I came up with. As fancy as it looks the assembled appearance would look like interlocking 1/2" square fingers. I need to make a trip to a nearby hardwood lumber source before I can actually cut this joint and extend my table legs. </span><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXA44xZP3m3PaTJ5Xg7Jzo3A_h4mA8WnZHL304B_0Axl0g5bj-7E0aCAXMnqielnWd7KEF8c_HymyTk2yFUCT4K-FZSlSYMO24C6H3s6QiZ7d_D_S7xd-iMAAw4c0gnoyXut12nlqRMLtGNltBIOxCaUGtYykCJ2NJkfTWDcx4Em_-zSCnp48DVxKLw3tH/s898/The%20other%20side.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="898" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXA44xZP3m3PaTJ5Xg7Jzo3A_h4mA8WnZHL304B_0Axl0g5bj-7E0aCAXMnqielnWd7KEF8c_HymyTk2yFUCT4K-FZSlSYMO24C6H3s6QiZ7d_D_S7xd-iMAAw4c0gnoyXut12nlqRMLtGNltBIOxCaUGtYykCJ2NJkfTWDcx4Em_-zSCnp48DVxKLw3tH/s320/The%20other%20side.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">One Side</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjKc1v5vvGuh2pObJljMyqSaMJsi6p_bfzCB2gucAKAa59iJWwDO3eTF1Fqw1yc1LtfWxwacA58bfTLU1JemYycsbr82aU8I2JVdl5ftsxUN3Ki-ISXYWSra_znkxt8o_KLguAdOBL9FTBi2UPdoVEOjb1q85aGf_-ypkAYLAxAa8fEMQjbvFZBvzyxYbz/s898/One%20side.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="898" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjKc1v5vvGuh2pObJljMyqSaMJsi6p_bfzCB2gucAKAa59iJWwDO3eTF1Fqw1yc1LtfWxwacA58bfTLU1JemYycsbr82aU8I2JVdl5ftsxUN3Ki-ISXYWSra_znkxt8o_KLguAdOBL9FTBi2UPdoVEOjb1q85aGf_-ypkAYLAxAa8fEMQjbvFZBvzyxYbz/s320/One%20side.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The Other Side</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">I was asked in a router forum if this could be done without using a CNC. Perhaps with templates and a hand held router the top image could be duplicated. To make the bottom image half the template would be more complex and need a separate center to allow cutting around the center tenon. I came up with a version that would produce the same final look but could be made easier using a router table or the table saw and a jig to hold up the parts with a 45 degree twist. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjesoZ5HwAIYcyX-zO7EatWdBhSiP0QkkxaKtsRKw3-Zq2jn2SYIgV4OU1mCZOuLPurAxX4jejqBgGSQn5tDwxR_k__f0pUxN2DqPLiHxV2WNzrFfo2z4ipE9jU_JEqvFp_P7AKvdczM8CuK9tWJt7WwrTsIZb3-obx1vS4Qoq2pCnPqD63z64Yz1DImvGF/s898/Slide%20version.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="898" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjesoZ5HwAIYcyX-zO7EatWdBhSiP0QkkxaKtsRKw3-Zq2jn2SYIgV4OU1mCZOuLPurAxX4jejqBgGSQn5tDwxR_k__f0pUxN2DqPLiHxV2WNzrFfo2z4ipE9jU_JEqvFp_P7AKvdczM8CuK9tWJt7WwrTsIZb3-obx1vS4Qoq2pCnPqD63z64Yz1DImvGF/s320/Slide%20version.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Slides together,</span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">Both versions would need a small allowance between halves, perhaps .003" on one side. Room for glue and a slip fit rather than needing to be pressed together with no clearance between halves. </span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Possibilities include using a contrasting wood for the feet. The table is made from Cherry, and Walnut socks might be more interesting than matching the wood with cherry feet. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">When I get around to making these leg extensions I'll add a photo or two to this post. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Questions and comments appreciated.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D</span></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-29194284566282758292023-10-21T10:03:00.002-06:002023-12-26T19:24:33.762-06:00 Rabbet Joint. With a Lesson on Using Screws and Plugs to Cover Them.<p><span style="font-size: medium;">A simple rabbet at a corner joint does at least provide one reference side when it comes time to glue up the corner. Not much better than a simple butt joint, but it adds a little more end grain to face grain glue surface area. Throw in two or three screws and this corner becomes quick to glue up. The screws serve to clamp it tight. The screw heads can be covered with plugs made from the same wood as the side or contrasting wood for some detail effect. This corner will be the hardest to break apart thanks to the screws. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXYi-6gFNSSgI6Z4D3CGMwsjJIsogvn7ERTIDDFbyXu-DrBp4vvMUjD_OULSco6KZB5ma3LE2t7pyYK9C_nSdVxvxug8pVoM-P3cGQpgdQVj8jB0zxXNRhTUYvOUuUnbxIeFBE2G2m75C_UuAoKlQ0KAKqUPRbt732tC77whPyHoNfVax4cqI8MPXGJi1X/s1130/Mark%20it.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="658" data-original-width="1130" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXYi-6gFNSSgI6Z4D3CGMwsjJIsogvn7ERTIDDFbyXu-DrBp4vvMUjD_OULSco6KZB5ma3LE2t7pyYK9C_nSdVxvxug8pVoM-P3cGQpgdQVj8jB0zxXNRhTUYvOUuUnbxIeFBE2G2m75C_UuAoKlQ0KAKqUPRbt732tC77whPyHoNfVax4cqI8MPXGJi1X/s320/Mark%20it.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Marked out to ensure the right location</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: medium;">It helps to mark out where the cut will be made to make sure it isn't cut on the wrong board or on the wrong side of the correct board. The boards used here are 5/8" thick. The rabbet width is thus 5/8". Depth of the rabbet can vary, but here we decided to make it 1/8" deep to leave enough wood behind it to embed screw heads into. A 3/4" diameter flat router bit used in a router table with 5/8" of it exposed outside the fence is a good way to cut the rabbet. Backing up the cut with a scrap board is recommended. . Notice in the photo above that the length of the board, if the rabbet is only 1/8" deep, will be 1/8" shorter than the opposite board with the rabbet/dado joint. Be sure and account for the different board lengths due to the joint being used. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Make sure the router is unplugged while you set it up. Y</span><span style="font-size: medium;">ou can set the exposed width of the router bit easily using one project board and another scrap of wood in front of it. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">Make sure the tip of the bit is as far out from the fence as possible. You may need to rotate it to get there. Once the bit just touches the outer board make sure the fence is tightened down. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">5/8" of the bit now projects from the face of the fence. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirmC7f7vmbNzjiIspto6AV4tOyASElvlNz6mYx89dCicaaSwyXy4Gfkkck2uC9GhDTZdLIV2gmaPFmG_iiGQzJQKmjRt24uEFVtsLHqbs6vZqw2-bggepInDF4kLm-uuRj55mFfdi5G8ost_eHmLJMRzJPZjAy0VS-6rIgqBCb0n86EXcka0uwlhQEiGhg/s1296/Set%20bit%20exposure.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1296" data-original-width="972" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirmC7f7vmbNzjiIspto6AV4tOyASElvlNz6mYx89dCicaaSwyXy4Gfkkck2uC9GhDTZdLIV2gmaPFmG_iiGQzJQKmjRt24uEFVtsLHqbs6vZqw2-bggepInDF4kLm-uuRj55mFfdi5G8ost_eHmLJMRzJPZjAy0VS-6rIgqBCb0n86EXcka0uwlhQEiGhg/s320/Set%20bit%20exposure.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Setting bit exposure width</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">You can set the exposed height of the router bit using a simple ruler or any of several gadgets available for setting blade or bit height. One shop trick is to use two 1/8" drill bits with a board laid atop. It is an easy way to set the bit height to 1/8" above the table surface. Raise the bit until it just touches the board above. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh580s_8KIf5cx-pNvVGYEQGZmKfS7O6kNR5J3gzJwZNYFvh6ljHszs3LyRE4RxAkdM1Q-vrRYhWJPsd5_ePZKXpAFbB_tgUJhBXmESgIHkdJhkktvVoBVRheZfuL8Am1QTz2QXGNZk9TCwdDSQVBtkZ5msQpkUwNT5O9oQ0iQmzvgFhs8KPIdJk7QORChQ/s967/Set%20bit%20height.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="796" data-original-width="967" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh580s_8KIf5cx-pNvVGYEQGZmKfS7O6kNR5J3gzJwZNYFvh6ljHszs3LyRE4RxAkdM1Q-vrRYhWJPsd5_ePZKXpAFbB_tgUJhBXmESgIHkdJhkktvVoBVRheZfuL8Am1QTz2QXGNZk9TCwdDSQVBtkZ5msQpkUwNT5O9oQ0iQmzvgFhs8KPIdJk7QORChQ/s320/Set%20bit%20height.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Setting bit height</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Counterbore vs countersink? We countersink flat head screws so the head is flush with the wood when it is tight. To counterbore is to end up with the screw head tight but beneath the surface of the wood. Below the surface of the wood you can use pan head screws rather than flat head screws. Flat head screws act to wedge the wood open as they tighten down. Near the end of a board the last thing you want is to have the wood split. A flat bottomed counterbore bit such as this one: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Snappy-Bottom-Counterbore-Countersink-Drill/dp/B01M3R8FZ3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=9J1CCA7OEZH4&keywords=3%2F8%22+counterbore+drill+but&qid=1697326981&sprefix=3%2F8+counterbore+drill+but%2Caps%2C404&sr=8-2" target="_blank"><span style="color: #fce5cd;">Amazon Link</span></a> is perfect for using pan head screws in the joint. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The screws made for pocket hole joints are self-tapping pan head screws. Care must be taken to avoid splitting the side board that the screws thread into. For a good reliable screwed joint three different drill bits, or a single combination bit should be used. The three bits would include a 3/8" bit for the counterbore, a second bit for the through hole that the screw will slip through but not thread into, and a third bit into the end of the joining side board. This should be the size of the inner shaft of the screws so the threads will cut but not try and split the wood. </span><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">One tip is to drill the holes for the screw before you cut the rabbet. Occasionally when drilling through a board the grain will blow out. In this case the rabbet cut done after drilling the holes will remove any damaged area. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Lay out where you want the screws. A line drawn 5/16" from the edge will be on the center of the joining board end. Locate where on that line you want the screws to be, and use a center punch to put a dent. The dent will help the drill bit start exactly where you want it. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsOOonDG2FnBfjMsyyXy-iniQGYL-5xNBYDTCYiPmKCTIYREuQFzaER7NYw93q3f6Qee_Sqncy9DzTRs9pUDfhw5MW-2Qhre4TiaxlM6-dEv2oCR1NweCI6yyMPIB0THLXBtkEqMWZrq5BgEMY18Zl9zuZDB7JYpxN4NcLYmgwpkScoQNi7c4cDPUhRcnn/s1296/Layout%20and%20centerpunch.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1296" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsOOonDG2FnBfjMsyyXy-iniQGYL-5xNBYDTCYiPmKCTIYREuQFzaER7NYw93q3f6Qee_Sqncy9DzTRs9pUDfhw5MW-2Qhre4TiaxlM6-dEv2oCR1NweCI6yyMPIB0THLXBtkEqMWZrq5BgEMY18Zl9zuZDB7JYpxN4NcLYmgwpkScoQNi7c4cDPUhRcnn/s320/Layout%20and%20centerpunch.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Layout and Centerpunch</span>.</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">While you can use a hand drill to drill the holes, it is wiser to use a drill press if one is available. A fence on the drill press bed can be set 5/16" from the drill bit center to ensure all the holes are the same distance from the board end. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKH51Ayf_8SK-fHxxim8dHQHdTk_GL6Ge4nXBJFwz9td5y9ZyOftla2e43W2Hly9epWSkpHvCi3scFkES6429xKmauTqaXvhgchgiLOnTgNSeGN5tWcdDseFWcHevFy5VQtOrcJ53RaiesYebHo025Yf1BtjAfKKAu7knBYRGIZHQlMpPGXdOuCUL9a0Hi/s1202/setup%20with%20fence.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1202" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKH51Ayf_8SK-fHxxim8dHQHdTk_GL6Ge4nXBJFwz9td5y9ZyOftla2e43W2Hly9epWSkpHvCi3scFkES6429xKmauTqaXvhgchgiLOnTgNSeGN5tWcdDseFWcHevFy5VQtOrcJ53RaiesYebHo025Yf1BtjAfKKAu7knBYRGIZHQlMpPGXdOuCUL9a0Hi/s320/setup%20with%20fence.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Fence set. Laser Aligned</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Some woods are brittle enough that they may tear out when hit with a spinning drill bit near the end. Proceed slowly. Hold the board firmly. Start with a 3/8" spur bit, and set the depth stop on the drill press to drill no more than 3/16"deep. If you can clamp down your board after aligning the bit to drill, you can place a thin scrap of 1/8"plywood over your board to drill through. That should prevent tear out on your board.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifQT5_rCGrAr4udJBPGDr40SWrgECTVCrGdMEa6ySZ9xKqLJrNrEgoJDHzFSVmxBZaBLYP-FFH9GjDDcbT5tnlV6Frwb2CrvBzyASw6OcTIioyFyNvvAxcQhLlo_BpL6lgInwo621O5LpGZuDpMJXQx8MVgeYhdKrS0ji2CmqNcNZjvj2LH81Aw8w41m4g/s1296/Counter%20bored%20done2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1296" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifQT5_rCGrAr4udJBPGDr40SWrgECTVCrGdMEa6ySZ9xKqLJrNrEgoJDHzFSVmxBZaBLYP-FFH9GjDDcbT5tnlV6Frwb2CrvBzyASw6OcTIioyFyNvvAxcQhLlo_BpL6lgInwo621O5LpGZuDpMJXQx8MVgeYhdKrS0ji2CmqNcNZjvj2LH81Aw8w41m4g/s320/Counter%20bored%20done2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 Holes Counterbored</td></tr></tbody></table>Once the holes are drilled go ahead and cut the rabbet. Be sure and back up the cut with a scrap block. Hearing protection strongly advised. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxZriW_rYUjqWrV3OEolhI_JuwAIVwV5zoe7epRmZ3dqQzMSbGRThAbVsEFXlxkO5RKWRS9rFHN17nXhjZtmw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>The only thing left to do is drill pilot holes for the screws in the ends of the mating side piece. That, and look for a plug cutter that will make 3/8" diameter plugs. While looking you can contemplate what wood you want to make the plugs from. A small scrap is all that is needed. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">On the adjoining board end it is best to layout, mark, and centerpunch where the screws will enter.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6XnpqpTzQn82Z1I1NUVQhNPPgS9VatwXGJ20v1g_VvilXqTuPXRI_ky9hTF9gykh7S4JB0ur6xA1C11suq5IK9IZU_0c7V5aCkPEZYiNnGOqRW3MfRmhPlUvzJnwSu50WwwrugF7BGIkuaTSK0h1vyUfexV1YM38katoDBTdeLktY0fsJWdILPcmyNAa/s1124/Marked%20and%20centerpunched.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="932" data-original-width="1124" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6XnpqpTzQn82Z1I1NUVQhNPPgS9VatwXGJ20v1g_VvilXqTuPXRI_ky9hTF9gykh7S4JB0ur6xA1C11suq5IK9IZU_0c7V5aCkPEZYiNnGOqRW3MfRmhPlUvzJnwSu50WwwrugF7BGIkuaTSK0h1vyUfexV1YM38katoDBTdeLktY0fsJWdILPcmyNAa/s320/Marked%20and%20centerpunched.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Marked and Centerpunched</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br />At the drill press, lower the table so the board can fit under the bit. Using a bed vise, or simply left assembled so it stands vertical, align the marks with the drill bit. When drilling it is best to jog in and out as the bit progresses to let the chips clear. Otherwise the bit will become clogged and heat up. Set the depth stop to drill approximately one inch deep. Choose the bit size to match the shaft of the screws but NOT the thread diameter of the screws. Threads will cut but the screw shaft won't try to split the board. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWpZYvK7_mUoroCeLxkPFd8bniRjKEVBPLiZJ3MrWTSRmVPOMYxvnUJarQce2Fegji8UIEzIum5Q8QwK88zXu6TX36dh021RhdP8iE29r4Illo2UPEChdehW6vjX1nZZbt2hXj_pjW7xfsji4121uhvpZYDbWvac_tBg0Envt7thTNDZGGv6N5z3tCEO7v/s1296/Pilot%20holes%20drilled.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1296" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWpZYvK7_mUoroCeLxkPFd8bniRjKEVBPLiZJ3MrWTSRmVPOMYxvnUJarQce2Fegji8UIEzIum5Q8QwK88zXu6TX36dh021RhdP8iE29r4Illo2UPEChdehW6vjX1nZZbt2hXj_pjW7xfsji4121uhvpZYDbWvac_tBg0Envt7thTNDZGGv6N5z3tCEO7v/s320/Pilot%20holes%20drilled.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Pilot holes drilled</span></td></tr></tbody></table>Screwing into end grain a screw with coarse threads is best. The screws available for pocket screws are ideal. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9feGsULqEODS_FsyzDz5PeY6KJ4-xhVqIlK5BbZ2nZL1O6bhAkBQSsThISA9E61_H4AgHboRYLS2kr9IhQYEIVES2pnzXXyvy55aY6KujxrV2zGoQ6PTE_ogetQd_Kxh6KkvDMYODR2Uhm5r_c40RRHiH-P_oWtS_ol_9axN0ic67TBkdFVoa3uPP2e9r/s3333/Screws%20used.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2243" data-original-width="3333" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9feGsULqEODS_FsyzDz5PeY6KJ4-xhVqIlK5BbZ2nZL1O6bhAkBQSsThISA9E61_H4AgHboRYLS2kr9IhQYEIVES2pnzXXyvy55aY6KujxrV2zGoQ6PTE_ogetQd_Kxh6KkvDMYODR2Uhm5r_c40RRHiH-P_oWtS_ol_9axN0ic67TBkdFVoa3uPP2e9r/s320/Screws%20used.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Pocket Hole Screws</span></td></tr></tbody></table>These screws should drop through and not thread through the holes drilled in the rabbeted board. That hole diameter should match or be just a bit larger than the thread diameter of the screws used. When assembling the screws will pull the rabbeted board tight against the end of the mating board. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFiXTBm0bVYIbQRhrJ7hwD6ZLBssKp97FvOCKuWJOiDzAg5n8jFTFAUYcn3RkJ9667F3p8EhxJpzFt4iLOJQW2dBqLxDBcmG_lIwgeZo-0JSResU5SqtnimLZLD4-13YXmGyfImxIJCTOLAPWSr4yEBJJc_nFKq_MwS6wpek0H84Ot0dq8JV6w0NLCqQWl/s884/Screws%20in%20place2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="856" data-original-width="884" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFiXTBm0bVYIbQRhrJ7hwD6ZLBssKp97FvOCKuWJOiDzAg5n8jFTFAUYcn3RkJ9667F3p8EhxJpzFt4iLOJQW2dBqLxDBcmG_lIwgeZo-0JSResU5SqtnimLZLD4-13YXmGyfImxIJCTOLAPWSr4yEBJJc_nFKq_MwS6wpek0H84Ot0dq8JV6w0NLCqQWl/s320/Screws%20in%20place2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Screws in place</span>.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>A plug cutter works best when used in a drill press. Face grain plugs can be cut that match the wood they insert into, and might nearly disappear when in place. Here I've used a scrap of walnut to make plugs with.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhktWaw61Wf150uvsoSIRV5iFlyOFcYDuYuVQkHjJ_IgtJJ4edXvIrTph2imqD61nL1fT_DBDJGmW47s3gBGOhnm2qdyeo0sN8U0wXKcGcADyxhO5i3TQQIUpVQLGsSD3hgQt5qw5L67FU7stPk_Otoss3FsYTb7BtGlCbMwYXoZtgDt0PmVr_jLr_RNgiG/s4000/DJI_0048.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2250" data-original-width="4000" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhktWaw61Wf150uvsoSIRV5iFlyOFcYDuYuVQkHjJ_IgtJJ4edXvIrTph2imqD61nL1fT_DBDJGmW47s3gBGOhnm2qdyeo0sN8U0wXKcGcADyxhO5i3TQQIUpVQLGsSD3hgQt5qw5L67FU7stPk_Otoss3FsYTb7BtGlCbMwYXoZtgDt0PmVr_jLr_RNgiG/s320/DJI_0048.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Plug Cutter in Drill Press</span></td></tr></tbody></table>There are better plug cutters available than the one I show being used. Mine is a bit dull and struggles to cut into the walnut scrap, yet it still makes useable 3/8" diameter plugs.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9VhaPgyuNL1Wh7dH6uq59TrLx4a7H6sV8JoO_i2EcVEoZVitFk_w_Y9TSmU-MW8YxBAru_PWzeoOfeUUQjkd7wSm45g50vopBvknRjKgd9LxbK6bscdtrTy9q4wLHT0JrzwbLUvLDPkwodcF7VZdD9e2KIHyC-EHedvjJYZTwGXUlgJmpSlRYCEP9JqKS/s1200/Small%20Screwdriver%20to%20remove.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="1200" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9VhaPgyuNL1Wh7dH6uq59TrLx4a7H6sV8JoO_i2EcVEoZVitFk_w_Y9TSmU-MW8YxBAru_PWzeoOfeUUQjkd7wSm45g50vopBvknRjKgd9LxbK6bscdtrTy9q4wLHT0JrzwbLUvLDPkwodcF7VZdD9e2KIHyC-EHedvjJYZTwGXUlgJmpSlRYCEP9JqKS/s320/Small%20Screwdriver%20to%20remove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Small Screwdriver</span></td></tr></tbody></table>A small screwdriver can be used to break the plugs free from the scrap board. Be patient before gluing these plugs in over the screws. The box sides still need to have a slot cut for the bottom of the box. The screws can still be removed so all the parts can be laid flat on the router table. <br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Once the box is finally glued/screwed together the plugs can be glued into the screw counter bored holes. Let them stick out. Wait for the glue to dry/set. The excess plug that sticks out can be rough trimmed off at the band saw, or with a chisel. A flush trim bit in a router table can trim what is left flush to the board surface. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Comments and Questions are encouraged!</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-22929353364891114862023-10-14T13:45:00.000-06:002023-10-14T13:45:49.689-06:00Splined Miter. A Simple Corner Joint that also Simplifies Glue-up of a Box or Cabinet.<div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAFom3hw3hwhrQbsRiCW1pRqPzdoMDEiNl9BTSyzQfw18pck8XUsbh917HXvLNqVGJqc0TKMMJYy_NIfrPrxVtcN0jSEFAB4WLN1SdHDm-iq0SoEw_4l-dpDU-pIiGtKujaGDb5gK0t6Mnw-rZj9SehKamkyJRoEtti14TskYj8DVm3UFiJolroMZIfW9/s1175/Good%20fit.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="763" data-original-width="1175" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAFom3hw3hwhrQbsRiCW1pRqPzdoMDEiNl9BTSyzQfw18pck8XUsbh917HXvLNqVGJqc0TKMMJYy_NIfrPrxVtcN0jSEFAB4WLN1SdHDm-iq0SoEw_4l-dpDU-pIiGtKujaGDb5gK0t6Mnw-rZj9SehKamkyJRoEtti14TskYj8DVm3UFiJolroMZIfW9/s320/Good%20fit.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Spined Miter Corner</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">This is the second of four different corner joints it is useful to know about. Best cut using a table saw with a miter gauge to add some safety to the cuts. It helps if the table saw blade is close to the same thickness of 3mm thick plywood as plywood's alternating layers make for a strong spline. You can use wood as the spline if you make sure the grain runs across the joint rather than parallel to it. On long mitered sides it is best to use the same material for the spline as the sides. Wood expansion/contraction as humidity changes can create a shearing force that will lead to failure of the joint of the spline won't expand with the sides.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Material used was 5/8" thick. The spline slot cut was 1/8" wide.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">You can use a router table to cut the spline slot on small parts, but it requires a jig to hold the sides up at 45 degrees. That or a router table that can tilt up 45 degrees. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The initial miter cut can be cut on the table saw, or on a compound angle miter saw standing up or laying flat. The height of the sides limits the use of the miter saw. I have close to 6 inches of cut height on my Bosch glide saw, and 14 inches or so of cut length. I get better result standing the sides up to cut so my limit is 6" of side height to cut them on the miter saw. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Table saw blades might leave a V bottom in their cuts. If you can find a blade that leaves a flat bottom it will make a flat bottom spline slot. The blades in a dado set are usually flat tipped so it might be worth changing to a single 1/8" or 3mm wide dado set blade. A simple test slot cut using the table saw will reveal how flat of a bottom it leaves the slot.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">To leave the joint strong it is best to have the spline slot closer to the inside of the corner, and not cut any deeper than half way through the sides. When setting up the table saw to cut this slot I marked where I wanted it and transferred the position to the top/outside of the board. This helped me align it with the slot already cut in the miter gauge face.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJfcSFjop6rIY9qj2uJQDN9wir68_XsLu8_asJgVllC485OI2KXwF7CtT3q_3gttjbafw7XguMifjdVHJAuBYNNbjynw2dqPXFzvzPNwQ-K0gbRMnBTS-rxkQ1MYB1rSX7HKcYwjJRM9wf-peX1SLR_MsBbrxeTkoM6S0IKqWNMV_CYNlr0dqHo4GnTgR/s1059/Slots%20cut.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="796" data-original-width="1059" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJfcSFjop6rIY9qj2uJQDN9wir68_XsLu8_asJgVllC485OI2KXwF7CtT3q_3gttjbafw7XguMifjdVHJAuBYNNbjynw2dqPXFzvzPNwQ-K0gbRMnBTS-rxkQ1MYB1rSX7HKcYwjJRM9wf-peX1SLR_MsBbrxeTkoM6S0IKqWNMV_CYNlr0dqHo4GnTgR/s320/Slots%20cut.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Slots Cut</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Using a miter gauge on the table saw to push the board through the saw blade is best done and easiest to align if you add a fresh face board to the miter gauge for the cuts. Some friction tape on the front of the face board will help keep boards from sliding left or right when being pushed through the saw blade. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWvHDDf78A2Ri2jXLhJ4h7_OOVpZ-H-2K7aak3ZnogEU97xzSkCRRht4oeVczI05hKRGssrddXSBD4bNI2KErBGYp7MI53f6pooJvLOB8v9SdohewU0PFcNUjiLz41UhC_Icw8410THOyYgSX00rxc8gMebrNTwgwl1XI5knXSEoI-hn2f90IQ4oskVBv/s1296/Miter%20gauge%20board.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1296" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWvHDDf78A2Ri2jXLhJ4h7_OOVpZ-H-2K7aak3ZnogEU97xzSkCRRht4oeVczI05hKRGssrddXSBD4bNI2KErBGYp7MI53f6pooJvLOB8v9SdohewU0PFcNUjiLz41UhC_Icw8410THOyYgSX00rxc8gMebrNTwgwl1XI5knXSEoI-hn2f90IQ4oskVBv/s320/Miter%20gauge%20board.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Slot in Gauge Face Board</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">A stop block clamped to the miter gauge board can ease alignment for the cuts. It is important that the slot position matches on mating sides. Many miter gauges have a built-in sliding stop block, and you may be tempted to use it. On a simpler set up a board clamped to the face board will do. Best place for a stop block is at the tip of the mitered corner. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqo3KJwUnkwIQ9lxV_HFcVXji970IYVZFib7imitZ8ItXoshWoPxkNDskuwFNE9cTVBHgXOr1ZYMYA2J7zIjgA7vPzTEr3LTZ0tVl_bEagzHyDEEcpLwZaLRRgdaiG9aFTwOgICxrARSyqVp4ppSaYdH02i2xN84C41L3lh-ZG6rI_ShSCrZp-5ZnoYtxV/s1001/Stop%20block%20Good.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="838" data-original-width="1001" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqo3KJwUnkwIQ9lxV_HFcVXji970IYVZFib7imitZ8ItXoshWoPxkNDskuwFNE9cTVBHgXOr1ZYMYA2J7zIjgA7vPzTEr3LTZ0tVl_bEagzHyDEEcpLwZaLRRgdaiG9aFTwOgICxrARSyqVp4ppSaYdH02i2xN84C41L3lh-ZG6rI_ShSCrZp-5ZnoYtxV/s320/Stop%20block%20Good.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Stop Block Position</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Is a splined miter any stronger than a simple miter with no spline? For simple boxes, it doesn't matter as there normally won't be any forces trying to pull apart or warp the corner. The advantage is in gluing up the box. The spline keeps the sides aligned when clamping together. The addition of glue surface area should offset any weakness introduced from the slot cut.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Questions or Comments welcomed!</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D </span></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-35738353582102033152023-10-10T09:32:00.004-06:002023-10-10T17:17:46.492-06:00Making a Rabbet/Dado Corner Joint Using the Router Table.<p><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhOpTkOdsdiwFwN13zvi4_G-ucrYbvMPOdol9sBJ2kcbCRRSHWBYsmtb2J57jhD1RfOJRo1i99xoMu7D_q_7kSGeXcKoa8AvbAfnFy5VFryD_1zhH-7yxqyJunRz21lqEY678OJpNPuprtGRR6pNrxudXSCSGNvC2bNhzH8ZDMDXcWYr1mmuJT-yuK1hHtP" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1296" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhOpTkOdsdiwFwN13zvi4_G-ucrYbvMPOdol9sBJ2kcbCRRSHWBYsmtb2J57jhD1RfOJRo1i99xoMu7D_q_7kSGeXcKoa8AvbAfnFy5VFryD_1zhH-7yxqyJunRz21lqEY678OJpNPuprtGRR6pNrxudXSCSGNvC2bNhzH8ZDMDXcWYr1mmuJT-yuK1hHtP" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Rabbet/Dado Corner Joint</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Here lies some logic and tricks for making a simple corner joint for wood boxes. This joint is as useful for small boxes as it is for case good furniture corners. When I taught I would demonstrate this process to my students. The work area was a small router table. Students gathered around had a limited view and inevitably needed personal help once they started cutting their own corner joint. This post is a reference so anyone making this joint can understand the steps. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Wood for this sample was planed down to exactly 5/8" thick. The goal is to end up with a snug fit and the two boards flush on the outside. The router bit used is a 3/16" diameter spiral upcut bit. Box sides could be any thickness from 1/8" to 3/4", so scale up or down the bit used as needed for the box side thickness. Some logic for why a 3/16" bit was used here:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxfzFCZSmCTA45v1A4R3HpziqB72z80C4O2iUT8se83gqE44ae15_qDazGSPyLYH2V2l9XeWbT5BxT4mKeJgg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi3XOEoUzohxd22IXyRecVckqAmwWRLgUGXuBF9DSSMqKhf4iyXlUjHd7LkCtur-GFrdUtk8mEhNZ0YF-SjS2ZxGtqKvlHWb8U8iMfDx6O1mFPdVBTzLwFxUI6uBiEZe_I-vZb-tJ3HeE88gsWvlQoO36vgPICeODHw_ydaBSzDUVCFtwOHYy41bqlViC3Y" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1296" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi3XOEoUzohxd22IXyRecVckqAmwWRLgUGXuBF9DSSMqKhf4iyXlUjHd7LkCtur-GFrdUtk8mEhNZ0YF-SjS2ZxGtqKvlHWb8U8iMfDx6O1mFPdVBTzLwFxUI6uBiEZe_I-vZb-tJ3HeE88gsWvlQoO36vgPICeODHw_ydaBSzDUVCFtwOHYy41bqlViC3Y" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The Dado Cut</span></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The dado side is done first. The router bit used will define the width of the dado. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">The dado slot needs to be positioned where the inner edge is 5/8" from the board end. This will allow the rabbet side to end up flush with the dado side. Using one board standing up against the fence allows using a second board to create a reference edge to set the bit flush against. Make sure you have the fence securely locked in place once set.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Setting the distance of the bit from the fence:<br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyCRrDJKcIdNzOfkion5l_MQT7m7_5h51SCPA2ONKSy-9ZCI9mYa-cJosCgvMCLyuXlssnIVwwLG-wc8EEo-w' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div></span><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Then set the height of the bit. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">A small ruler can be used to help set the height of the bit for the dado cut. There are also several height setting gadgets out there that could be used. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzmDA4uDjs4P-2xuUX5BiRiObUGGBg1GMJvTH5rjKziw-QZcTIr8CUU_YFZc8MdOY7YyVHglvKUnWtC16xBAw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">You should feed the board, snug against the fence and firmly against the table, <b>from right to left.</b> The direction that the bit spins will help keep the board against the fence as you feed it through. Feed from left to right (the wrong way!) and the bit spin will try to pull your board away from the fence. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">You should use a backup board to follow the cut when cutting across the grain. </span>This will prevent the grain from tearing out as the bit exits the side.</div></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzwcyDNARqattWSJAug8tbvXYad-F3_CC1iptpq1QpfC9kr9Alz0MWgf11clRwX4-Lf1XP7oRBqy22vC-jlLQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>To set up for the rabbet cut you'll need to reset the bit height and distance from the fence.</div><div style="text-align: left;">The rabbet side setup can be derived from the dado side it needs to mate to. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">It helps to mark what will be removed when cutting the rabbet end. A common mistake is to cut the rabbet on the wrong side. You can see in the photo below the area that will need to be removed as it relates to the dado.</span></div><div style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_0rEZrXTfzD6e0p2uUzSVfxC-Fj-6pDLJJ5yQa-Y_hvMdTa4ZRWinvXJQbZW-xNDWPUar_TqkvkrY28yM7-xEvr9wZoDe3Njjpdlw0CRhWyw7OWuuYBMavdC2oOHiuN5xkjBM0uW5iagTw54gRTxmm6UKUctqPm7dPAobl_5yBA0U0MS1682G46MYaB4a" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1296" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_0rEZrXTfzD6e0p2uUzSVfxC-Fj-6pDLJJ5yQa-Y_hvMdTa4ZRWinvXJQbZW-xNDWPUar_TqkvkrY28yM7-xEvr9wZoDe3Njjpdlw0CRhWyw7OWuuYBMavdC2oOHiuN5xkjBM0uW5iagTw54gRTxmm6UKUctqPm7dPAobl_5yBA0U0MS1682G46MYaB4a" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dado End Marked<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">A scrap of 3/16" thick wood slipped into the dado will make setting the height of the rabbet cut easy. Raise the bit up until it just touches the projecting scrap. Be sure to tighten the bit adjustment once you have the bit set at the right height. </span></div><div style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEif5oEOIQX_tmVDhzyac7e53KMPTsT-4zlzD-tsj8kxbPZchB6KPcNqTmp-6zMXRcyc7WrB8HM5G-ueWlv1RcFc7LR8INXHf6rcvUTewxBp6_7G3pkuXXU45UnF37qc1hqK5HUfFIAcPJtzdS-RyJLE8KNj7C0JpZvV_T2PwvZ0wRvOyJtSR4P_An4Q-0An" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1296" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEif5oEOIQX_tmVDhzyac7e53KMPTsT-4zlzD-tsj8kxbPZchB6KPcNqTmp-6zMXRcyc7WrB8HM5G-ueWlv1RcFc7LR8INXHf6rcvUTewxBp6_7G3pkuXXU45UnF37qc1hqK5HUfFIAcPJtzdS-RyJLE8KNj7C0JpZvV_T2PwvZ0wRvOyJtSR4P_An4Q-0An" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Setting bit height for rabbet cut<br /><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><div style="text-align: left;">You can use the dado slot you just cut to set the bit distance from the fence for the rabbet cut. Loosen one end of the fence. Stand the dado side up and slip the dado over the bit, then push the fence against the board. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dz3rBE6xQOJd2M-3bZxE8u-JUtMiRBzXXfIhGkmdWNc3qNC5DGZuODItJsRWx18sO4W4IfIaRQA0MBAe9nRpQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Be sure to lock the fence in place after you've set it! If the fence moves during a cut it will ruin the project board.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">This Rabbet/Dado corner joint is just one of four different joints created for this project box. As it slides together in only one direction it is a good choice for drawer boxes. The rabbeted sides are the front and back of a drawer. The tongues that hook into the dado on the side pieces will pull or push the side, which will pull or push the back piece. An additional front board might be added to cover the rabbeted front box board, possibly extend out to cover added drawer slides, and dress up the drawer. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2022/04/woodworking-education-joinery-box-not.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #fce5cd;">The entire joinery box project.</span></a> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Any suggestions for making this information more clear/understandable would be appreciated. I'll edit the post as I refine the videos and process flow. Just leave a comment.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">4D</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div></div><p></p>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-32337142067894735892023-08-15T08:07:00.019-06:002023-08-22T17:40:11.848-06:00Coasters. Everywhere I Look I see Coasters!<p><span style="font-size: medium;">I'm having quite a bit of fun playing with the drafting features of my CNC software. It has a polygon drawing tool. This lets you make polygons of any whole number of sides above 2. Triangles to 45 sided polygons and above. Of course once above 20 sides or so the shapes start to look more like circles. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">In a previous post I mention how nice this tool and a few others could be used to make complex geometric patterns. One great use for such pattern work is to add detail to simple project surfaces. To quash a bored few minutes I've been using the software to make patterns for coasters. A simple shape. Unlimited pattern possibilities. Here are a few.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwhnQb-rnA7FzkfSvgI3QKu_aw0wo4fvUgYfzxtq5PcBdKiXTvS7c_4qu8EEvhkxuUv7ZDlrAbKjuMxudN0j0sR1md3y2uo23bEwHSld0dpxPGMtOJlnFQQuIb4OU2AHNoq15GmcEMlBxfskbgrJsjmDF43KbmQ7vAyumDqB_XYzkvvD-FrJuutuG9rgV/s891/Coaster%20criss-cross%20ovals.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="891" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwhnQb-rnA7FzkfSvgI3QKu_aw0wo4fvUgYfzxtq5PcBdKiXTvS7c_4qu8EEvhkxuUv7ZDlrAbKjuMxudN0j0sR1md3y2uo23bEwHSld0dpxPGMtOJlnFQQuIb4OU2AHNoq15GmcEMlBxfskbgrJsjmDF43KbmQ7vAyumDqB_XYzkvvD-FrJuutuG9rgV/s320/Coaster%20criss-cross%20ovals.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Bos5SzK7i63CIMA593_x5V8Fh6uXxnKut84s7xMq5COL_l54cUI8j4o6ETnPqr0BGpuFF-JPC5W-7y8SA4Ukj1aBPQ9xb72X0QKFktZXiEOLigqF0ODJoyB2RRG2TOTwU55qO9BbqppONcWrCkYkEP93FNKK2E9R3vX6I030AFH42fQzz0EWg9ezqs-y/s891/Heptagon%20in%20a%20heptagon%20x14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="891" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Bos5SzK7i63CIMA593_x5V8Fh6uXxnKut84s7xMq5COL_l54cUI8j4o6ETnPqr0BGpuFF-JPC5W-7y8SA4Ukj1aBPQ9xb72X0QKFktZXiEOLigqF0ODJoyB2RRG2TOTwU55qO9BbqppONcWrCkYkEP93FNKK2E9R3vX6I030AFH42fQzz0EWg9ezqs-y/s320/Heptagon%20in%20a%20heptagon%20x14.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6QVn5cHhNCC0vxyK7bdfpGWWhjN9gYT2ohVukRSBfQ-VC5mrOJ9UtWZAK1feHK3SrUdtzl0lDa23igvcs1Gpycs3lpw2YGGfV4jze9La_LgC4l03oXjGHZmD5Azx2sqpfSyl84TBTl_Y-JXFbAX4CvaiOzfUSwrhmhkHEMuAo8O8rD99Z_7Dw0t4kJe9X/s891/Notched%207agon%20x14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="891" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6QVn5cHhNCC0vxyK7bdfpGWWhjN9gYT2ohVukRSBfQ-VC5mrOJ9UtWZAK1feHK3SrUdtzl0lDa23igvcs1Gpycs3lpw2YGGfV4jze9La_LgC4l03oXjGHZmD5Azx2sqpfSyl84TBTl_Y-JXFbAX4CvaiOzfUSwrhmhkHEMuAo8O8rD99Z_7Dw0t4kJe9X/s320/Notched%207agon%20x14.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbo6ygnvZoaMEer9PhDyGSaLxaeWz4411GZGObLtiGvdsfAGBgGwe5HMSCbqh6YjLhxlznPnFjFZ01mQGG-oVto0RRgRUz-7a8OdoU0Hw9pXmytAGyQHSOs6pTzRkW7Zbad3gg5d6CWTcNR2l4G_DndFyhNP-tY5kff8HnGHwGbJ2hEFD0H8ChHX9HoBfb/s891/Notched%2011agon%20x11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="891" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbo6ygnvZoaMEer9PhDyGSaLxaeWz4411GZGObLtiGvdsfAGBgGwe5HMSCbqh6YjLhxlznPnFjFZ01mQGG-oVto0RRgRUz-7a8OdoU0Hw9pXmytAGyQHSOs6pTzRkW7Zbad3gg5d6CWTcNR2l4G_DndFyhNP-tY5kff8HnGHwGbJ2hEFD0H8ChHX9HoBfb/s320/Notched%2011agon%20x11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="891" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsGbWABQsa8p2NqVLpp5-EgSuDrfpiNla0o0AHZ5hxeGO4o0ceQWvXTVcYvDEmpuY6zwkeJvNATC6Zi1CKCzCIJbmcHTHr7Uwk8teRIXZf3lvRUnf8Ht67NXjqscohp8w9DckDfF7Ky4dJE4qUT4SgDWo5IbeoXmdxb6o2O6u6TbX3u2iExz_sba4_Jze/s320/Notched%20and%20coved%2012agon.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9fyJttyRRzjJ2G6hIQdKHzn3ugZoJEn5pYDTi4wNqfkDknIzz5NN32Pff5xKMvfPBXT9SSlarL92PdSteVn0ia9fKbeHWdmmyZGhQEHi3F6C_vgZehZgLegE7ptdn4YOcCGeAWsrGYGpyNE50GY2G0mKnbGCG3QWvW607xlseRjvX_oVuC0mO1M5XDbi/s891/Notched%20circle%20x12.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="891" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9fyJttyRRzjJ2G6hIQdKHzn3ugZoJEn5pYDTi4wNqfkDknIzz5NN32Pff5xKMvfPBXT9SSlarL92PdSteVn0ia9fKbeHWdmmyZGhQEHi3F6C_vgZehZgLegE7ptdn4YOcCGeAWsrGYGpyNE50GY2G0mKnbGCG3QWvW607xlseRjvX_oVuC0mO1M5XDbi/s320/Notched%20circle%20x12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="812" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjKOikmic6M88MeyxMi38-sy3eY3oY93ADszg4Otrt7889OJ-1cvJ2zuUTEth01nWSupzBAST0RuBcf521QKuRMGNV2SgWb1QY7hLnOWA3hXE940hriAIISNwxgtxw2PveRiaSj3LC-EO3FqfopC1YaSjZ7bN6GoFzFmRRPo0K-YmBO2V4ngZ2WNV3i71n/s320/pentacurves%20x7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQOWWKt3ax25IwAWN5lq-jBFaZKVIA-Ypeb3g3vVLEbwBCdqgDddryT66ypyrCioAmZ6BGUNN7iDJ_PDbz_Rzp5ECyU1nun_dV-HAxAtKGoY78WRIQGMhx4SrBccy4hyglwrLQzmbvEsDcK0uBS0fyodBnJnBZ3JT16ZxpzTyvdhw3QGs0Nsa-VSI4ZScj/s812/Tree%20x8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="812" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQOWWKt3ax25IwAWN5lq-jBFaZKVIA-Ypeb3g3vVLEbwBCdqgDddryT66ypyrCioAmZ6BGUNN7iDJ_PDbz_Rzp5ECyU1nun_dV-HAxAtKGoY78WRIQGMhx4SrBccy4hyglwrLQzmbvEsDcK0uBS0fyodBnJnBZ3JT16ZxpzTyvdhw3QGs0Nsa-VSI4ZScj/s320/Tree%20x8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>From simple to very complex. The tiny details on some could be left out with no loss of visual impact on a 4" diameter coaster. The patterns I've confined to the inner 3.5" diameter area.</div></div><div><br /></div></span></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>While I like the shadow effects of the V-cut patterns, for practical use the cuts should be filled with epoxy or inlayed using the VCarve inlay technique and contrasting wood. Clear epoxy might let you still appreciate the carved look. The slight chamfered edge makes them easy to handle. I'd cut a circle of adhesive backed cork to stick to the bottom surface if I made them. </span><br /></span><p><span style="font-size: medium;">A good project to do with a CNC using small scraps of wood and a short amount of time. Even complex toolpaths don't take much time to cut on such small areas. Four or maybe six could be cut from a strip of wood to make a set. Use the same pattern for all, or use unique patterns on each individual coaster.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4D </span></p><br /><br />4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-72866972947122295202023-08-06T11:29:00.003-06:002023-08-10T06:34:52.933-06:00Motorizing my Adjustable Angle CNC Clamping Fixture<span style="font-size: medium;">Using my adjustable angle clamping fixture is relatively easy. One nagging "flaw" it has is the ease or perhaps unease of setting the angle on it. Projects often expect a precise setting. The action of lifting the jig and holding it in position while setting the clamps is usually an awkward ballet. If only I could motorize it. </span><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB27rIeeXbk3gaySD6Ucpb9KpTOemprBOtTdWEdYoWt5xvWjbMhr73Q5_q-T5H0Zw9MpeFEcy5M20SzofQREtksv-r7oapVRT3PmobOdfRdoeZwq_DvR1Ukg5hL-itPTLOnBjILfRXG11T7I4e1E_eIXGKGGFHqkLlDxeOHs_xZlj9uAKhNskbd6QP0tvd/s2160/Angle%20Setting.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="1620" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB27rIeeXbk3gaySD6Ucpb9KpTOemprBOtTdWEdYoWt5xvWjbMhr73Q5_q-T5H0Zw9MpeFEcy5M20SzofQREtksv-r7oapVRT3PmobOdfRdoeZwq_DvR1Ukg5hL-itPTLOnBjILfRXG11T7I4e1E_eIXGKGGFHqkLlDxeOHs_xZlj9uAKhNskbd6QP0tvd/s320/Angle%20Setting.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Setting the Angle</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The desire to motorized my clamping fixture is an old one. I've looked into stepper motors with Arduino control, drive screws and rack and pinion gear drives, long counter-balanced lever arms, magnetic repulsion, etc.. Magic had only a fleeting consideration as I found it an unreliable force. 😉</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">This project strives to motorize the lifting of the fixture with a linear actuator. It is also a test to see how fine of control I can achieve with momentary toggle switch up/down button presses to control the actuator. I hope the actuator movement can be slowed down with a variable speed controller for more precise positioning of the fixture angle. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFzEU-WO48xLjWl6bK7LVNJW2Wmi0INxS4Kzs8Pmr3ZVLLDZtyR4L6nVe0cREKqZcPS4HPsePvJwqf8-gqmZSO-sO29BNYLl0YdsDQCNSIv8ZlMYxDD6tEaBtDab-Dqw2uDYRv2TN3RVkmhZKYzKj0_lm-GnKiziej1Y6HvSbHNQR1VShZwPqJVXNvnlgs/s859/diagram%20for%20actuator%20placement.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="859" data-original-width="769" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFzEU-WO48xLjWl6bK7LVNJW2Wmi0INxS4Kzs8Pmr3ZVLLDZtyR4L6nVe0cREKqZcPS4HPsePvJwqf8-gqmZSO-sO29BNYLl0YdsDQCNSIv8ZlMYxDD6tEaBtDab-Dqw2uDYRv2TN3RVkmhZKYzKj0_lm-GnKiziej1Y6HvSbHNQR1VShZwPqJVXNvnlgs/s320/diagram%20for%20actuator%20placement.jpg" width="286" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Actuator Placement</td></tr></tbody></table>The tough challenge was finding an actuator that could work with the geometry of my fixture and how it is mounted on the CNC relative to the base the CNC sits on. Position of one end of the actuator needed to be "exactly" where the end limits of a specific actuator would line up in both horizontal and vertical positions of the fixture. An actuator with eight inches of travel would only work if mounted in a very specific position.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">As the fixture rotates from vertical to horizontal, the actuator had to be entirely behind the vertical position. Geometry dictates exactly where it could be mounted. Ideally the push of the actuator would be 90 degrees from the fixture plate, but that is impossible given the arcing transition from vertical to horizontal.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The actuator I ordered has 8" of travel. It has built in limits to not go past 8" or under 0" when closed. In the diagram above I had to find a position under the bed of the fixture where when mounted the actuator moves exactly 8" from vertical to horizontal positions. You can see that I've come very very close. Within a few 1/1000ths from 8" .</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Mounting brackets that came with the actuator are represented in the drawing. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I took the fixture off the front rail and clamped the bed of it to my CNC so I could cut pockets and holes for the nuts and bolts needed to mount the actuator end brackets</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I've now got one end bracket bolted to the underside of the fixture bed. I've at least momentarily mounted the other end bracket on the CNC base. I'm waiting for a variable speed control to arrive before wiring up the actuator to see if where it is mounted works.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Wiring the speed control took some contemplation. The control box is a simple toggle relay that switches the current depending on which control button is hit. It suggested the speed control should be between the power supply and the control relay box.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The speed controller arrived.</span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWANVKwtso7J9KQf4bHR5VnxXWCqX0E-veEJ822dVnAlJIlSD8qAAPA1V-XtQbkx2ClVj_hA7d-oWz1dogJL-DNFRRJg-DuI7_GBBa_UACvENYquPHGP4-InQhebC_jCY_BU1PlkHmIetNmHv50YAXkc_YnIb6T9LZhjgae1V2r3lfmcT64Uh69RtaMxtI/s1080/Speed%20controller.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWANVKwtso7J9KQf4bHR5VnxXWCqX0E-veEJ822dVnAlJIlSD8qAAPA1V-XtQbkx2ClVj_hA7d-oWz1dogJL-DNFRRJg-DuI7_GBBa_UACvENYquPHGP4-InQhebC_jCY_BU1PlkHmIetNmHv50YAXkc_YnIb6T9LZhjgae1V2r3lfmcT64Uh69RtaMxtI/s320/Speed%20controller.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Speed Controller</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The lead from the power supply needed to be cut off and wires stripped to attach to the speed controller. Done. The wires from the control box to the actuator need to be soldered together. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I'd hoped the speed controller came with a way to bolt/screw it down, but that appears to be another puzzle to solve. I want to affixed it to CNC frame so it is secure and won't move when I raise or lower the actuator speed. It appears to be an aluminum extrusion, capped with plastic ends and a front frame for a metal plate that has the speed dial and markings on it. There are a couple of screws on one end, but not the other end although there are holes for screws there. There are also two screws on one side of the extrusion. In line but not equally spaced from the ends. I suspect I'll need to open it up to see if I can drill a couple holes in the bottom to put screws through for attaching to the CNC frame.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Soldering the actuator cable to the control box cable is done. A system check verified that the speed control and remote control all work as expected. Installed on my CNC it looks like it will do the job. There is a bit of flex in the fixture, but with the speed control and a magnetic digital angle gauge attached to the metal blade of a tri-square it only took a few second to set the angle on the fixture. Tightening the cam levers momentarily wiggles the CNC and make the angle on the gauge vary, but once done and settled down the angle returns to what the actuator set it to. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKCzn2vLimlCKx8QmzA5o31p7ay0eq2Pxlx6R_kpz8z-5iDH2U-C3rgi0vXyDpqOHJl2KwZqxZpMAp8xZl5W-o2hqeJrtbtbOQjC9Np1cG5bnP9yaJviOdXOSKJBMbUocntj-OhXw2gq3xRT6e3inHdh3_KQw5aChs_99r96DBh5k7Bqs-DtGAiG8iaLd/s1512/Actuator%20Mount.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1134" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKCzn2vLimlCKx8QmzA5o31p7ay0eq2Pxlx6R_kpz8z-5iDH2U-C3rgi0vXyDpqOHJl2KwZqxZpMAp8xZl5W-o2hqeJrtbtbOQjC9Np1cG5bnP9yaJviOdXOSKJBMbUocntj-OhXw2gq3xRT6e3inHdh3_KQw5aChs_99r96DBh5k7Bqs-DtGAiG8iaLd/s320/Actuator%20Mount.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Actuator in Place</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The controller came with a wireless switch. That is nice as finding a place to mount a wired switch would be a challenge. I can keep the wireless control in the drawer of the work station. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">In practice I'll never need to bring the fixture to a horizontal position as I have a better setup on the bed for horizontal work. For now though this linear actuator should do fine handling any or of he future angled or compound angle CNC jobs. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">One small shortcoming is that when beginning at the vertical position and actuator retracted, starting out the actuator force applied is at a shallow angle relative to the fixture bed. Due to play in the connection points precise setting of angles from 80 to 89 are best done manually. The ideal angle between fixture and actuator would have been 45 degrees at both starting (vertical) and ending (horizontal) positions of the fixture. Unfortunately no such mounting point for the actuator exists. If I could mount the base of the actuator 45 degrees from the bracket when vertical I'd need a bit more than 8.5" of travel to push it to horizontal position. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">A revision to make it work at 45 degrees would require a new mounting platform for the bottom of the actuator, and new positions for both end brackets. The bottom end would extend much farther away from the CNC base. I'm looking for an indirect mechanical approach/solution, but complicating the mechanism is contrary to my personal design philosophy. A better strategy might be to start from scratch and design a new fixture that includes motorized control from the beginning. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Questions? Suggestions? Leave a comment.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /> </span></div></div></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-24565795802078601222023-08-03T21:08:00.001-06:002023-08-04T13:51:17.960-06:00 Polygons and Pattern Work<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0ak-gDAos_qUrLls38mH38-Hr273hDOXSKcN_uu-ALWWXQrf5UW1fUL0t_Kou8RlHSfKlN5bo9P2GI8O2Rl6DsTiq8L3pC3OmNGNlG4EaZoCYj3ClmO3u-jY2dJmfO5UNYt1pyqKvWUF2stTKeNNOvGOVgtrZ5TEzmgbgtbwkBys7KTqqKWX01gsrXsJm/s1387/Spun%20Heptagons.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1387" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0ak-gDAos_qUrLls38mH38-Hr273hDOXSKcN_uu-ALWWXQrf5UW1fUL0t_Kou8RlHSfKlN5bo9P2GI8O2Rl6DsTiq8L3pC3OmNGNlG4EaZoCYj3ClmO3u-jY2dJmfO5UNYt1pyqKvWUF2stTKeNNOvGOVgtrZ5TEzmgbgtbwkBys7KTqqKWX01gsrXsJm/s320/Spun%20Heptagons.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Spun Heptagons</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">There is an interesting geometric feature that basic polygons all have. For any polygon you can take a chord (connecting opposing corners) and with one end as the center point spin and copy it twice the number of the polygon sides over 360 degrees and you'll find that every corner of the polygon is passed through by one of the spun vectors. </span> <p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjyGfF-4AAkDrnOtgOy-M4l46xCqJmp3HmZy8YDg2Uez0C6Ak1Fwg6NKqHtC1TZjNaH35Fa_HTi1M7etKHD6QKe26COTDQMR7yYlEkK_Q3wKzpyLv_Hg-ybfWWaxXQEGZAMKJAp4h7G18HhrCS53CP5c2Tj5_l6rJXRTO9ypmudJzIDNe0SVQIOOWbk57G/s822/Heptagon%20Spun.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="822" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjyGfF-4AAkDrnOtgOy-M4l46xCqJmp3HmZy8YDg2Uez0C6Ak1Fwg6NKqHtC1TZjNaH35Fa_HTi1M7etKHD6QKe26COTDQMR7yYlEkK_Q3wKzpyLv_Hg-ybfWWaxXQEGZAMKJAp4h7G18HhrCS53CP5c2Tj5_l6rJXRTO9ypmudJzIDNe0SVQIOOWbk57G/s320/Heptagon%20Spun.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Heptagon Chord</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">It works with Heptagons. It'll work with Nonagons or Hexagons or Octagons too.</span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1a0ppc5pGyjC2jEdDNbtKHLJnuKUBAp5k5b4c2Y9uWnuzwyJWw0NRSLIrsd4MmLTSt3cZr5Jz6CkppRZTo3UZGsNu0JWEY5A3Ky5XscgMxJH-dIZ7SdQMw5wIyZlf6CxrnaUyQnPDHo5ChfNK9_HM3YDYk1Rg5OofanTpfc4FtAy0xkgJGgbcyGYg7Tx/s825/Octagon%20Spun.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="821" data-original-width="825" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1a0ppc5pGyjC2jEdDNbtKHLJnuKUBAp5k5b4c2Y9uWnuzwyJWw0NRSLIrsd4MmLTSt3cZr5Jz6CkppRZTo3UZGsNu0JWEY5A3Ky5XscgMxJH-dIZ7SdQMw5wIyZlf6CxrnaUyQnPDHo5ChfNK9_HM3YDYk1Rg5OofanTpfc4FtAy0xkgJGgbcyGYg7Tx/s320/Octagon%20Spun.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Octagon Chord</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">I suspect the fact that all corners of the polygon fall on a spun vector will be true for any number of sides. For pattern work using more than a 13 sided polygon the patterns created get pretty dense. To carve them in wood using a V-bit the tinier details get lost or brittle. </span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQe0PjVfy4YdnjAoyxgaZCGazN3qhEeHHptXejLDFV-hulxcXb2LX5gt1R3vpUiQQE683ifesV-KfeuP0RQcoPHcHvNqQbKQgaZ7BHD1peIH2tyvSIeFQ6wh9k1eISBIe3aLuveSxAKqJ-mBPck-OYvrkJ6SYYtCPB4Pp6vYW6__f9sVT-2FL78y4bwAMG/s824/Nonagon%20Spun.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="824" data-original-width="817" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQe0PjVfy4YdnjAoyxgaZCGazN3qhEeHHptXejLDFV-hulxcXb2LX5gt1R3vpUiQQE683ifesV-KfeuP0RQcoPHcHvNqQbKQgaZ7BHD1peIH2tyvSIeFQ6wh9k1eISBIe3aLuveSxAKqJ-mBPck-OYvrkJ6SYYtCPB4Pp6vYW6__f9sVT-2FL78y4bwAMG/s320/Nonagon%20Spun.jpg" width="317" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Nonagon Chord</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">To make an interesting pattern I used a feature in my CNC software to make copies of the polygon that attach to each of the spun vectors. </span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMoIsf6j4MC72qZbzktPETHemkrcjbaDxxmHRLHXkvPvtkLj1rYoE9tuXwfjMUgJKCkQa7fWEE0XyW4STDOHkEzaaTgTrHw1gVUTfS9GCsDTFQ2L-p6PL0T_PPm8BEEf7V3g9vV4caWm1Fnqg_cAioTV78tUirT9oT6WiRcEC0gFo-EzU0QlzZ7LRk0Xqn/s817/Spun%20Nonagon%20Pattern.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="817" data-original-width="817" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMoIsf6j4MC72qZbzktPETHemkrcjbaDxxmHRLHXkvPvtkLj1rYoE9tuXwfjMUgJKCkQa7fWEE0XyW4STDOHkEzaaTgTrHw1gVUTfS9GCsDTFQ2L-p6PL0T_PPm8BEEf7V3g9vV4caWm1Fnqg_cAioTV78tUirT9oT6WiRcEC0gFo-EzU0QlzZ7LRk0Xqn/s320/Spun%20Nonagon%20Pattern.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Pattern from Nonagons</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Before I could make toolpaths to carve the pattern I had to outline the sections I wanted to be cut. Once done I selected just the outlined shapes and use the V-Carve toolpath with a 120 degree V-bit to produce the shape below.</span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_1ficxN9zW1nYAyBcEDqVPQxegr4eM8K3UwH-AkofbBaOchLX-y3MVVm8oKDN_Goo9vQrx7T8_aYAtLWHFFvZjiX9ACRg3JvOxSd0Ju0cg73rwDH4zBJPdeDEYokBwuQix3q5_rlHha6jSZB9n3_XbsvH9HXDmg8lsTh0UdPPksVfktAx1q7rXL_lW2UU/s1387/Spun%20Nonogons.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1387" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_1ficxN9zW1nYAyBcEDqVPQxegr4eM8K3UwH-AkofbBaOchLX-y3MVVm8oKDN_Goo9vQrx7T8_aYAtLWHFFvZjiX9ACRg3JvOxSd0Ju0cg73rwDH4zBJPdeDEYokBwuQix3q5_rlHha6jSZB9n3_XbsvH9HXDmg8lsTh0UdPPksVfktAx1q7rXL_lW2UU/s320/Spun%20Nonogons.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Spun Nonagons</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Even star shapes can be used. More detail can show up depending on what the inner radius is relative to the outer radius.</span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR3Z-4E-H48Wg3qxNO8ZO5U1SPkSXrKiLcof1Uw0XWHc1Qqr05NAd_lqIzjaWx-iiHNzlJ1_B9J62VEWDlZIaG824o5nYdi8XMj7aV3Ag3FvweCgQxonMXJJI-qjezKnSVjRdiy2PI1N4m_Sav9RPjzvbfJNUMMGA2GFmURuAprD3UJ7ArZ64ivQbtcZ83/s821/Spun%20Star%20Pattern.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="820" data-original-width="821" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR3Z-4E-H48Wg3qxNO8ZO5U1SPkSXrKiLcof1Uw0XWHc1Qqr05NAd_lqIzjaWx-iiHNzlJ1_B9J62VEWDlZIaG824o5nYdi8XMj7aV3Ag3FvweCgQxonMXJJI-qjezKnSVjRdiy2PI1N4m_Sav9RPjzvbfJNUMMGA2GFmURuAprD3UJ7ArZ64ivQbtcZ83/s320/Spun%20Star%20Pattern.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Spun Star Pattern</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">A nine tipped star was used to make the complex pattern above. A 7 tipped star was used make the pattern carved below.</span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn1dMb7K-vwIXsnOr-9UgygxhHwMITXHzutk_jP72HFbbMaBV7nsT32_INvQqIp8-MMuUt1UxjVqat93VzEF0uwvseH3zU89YBSzOj44Gi-ChKAeMSPNk9fuUyiebemk9_cTeJrJFkt7ukca85tpNgcU9WeE1dOukYg8N0p1IuF6H0Usk4Abd-0gATmn_-/s1387/Spun%207stars.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1387" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn1dMb7K-vwIXsnOr-9UgygxhHwMITXHzutk_jP72HFbbMaBV7nsT32_INvQqIp8-MMuUt1UxjVqat93VzEF0uwvseH3zU89YBSzOj44Gi-ChKAeMSPNk9fuUyiebemk9_cTeJrJFkt7ukca85tpNgcU9WeE1dOukYg8N0p1IuF6H0Usk4Abd-0gATmn_-/s320/Spun%207stars.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">7 Tipped Star Pattern</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">While I haven't actually carved any of the examples above, I am contemplating covering a small feature wall in my house with an array of patterned tiles made using this trick. More Complex patterns can be made with a denser spun vector array. Instead of just 14 vectors with a heptagon, 28 vectors could be used. </span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTZvlpgfNKNn834ScEBSrOPLO2fR4NDG5-UmjaU94o4M49FvXrH_gp3l7mBUFpe0EPSgKO5_q8lbCjBH2KO5mEjtur0CYut8H9rWpmYL9VpxUv8bS1fVc-l9x7bUdiF4eXMGGBYcmNwkL1XjX6cQGq1WkR2xO6rJeBS0gYZo9mzQkKztJNeZBx-BiLq-hW/s854/28%20array%20heptagons.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="854" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTZvlpgfNKNn834ScEBSrOPLO2fR4NDG5-UmjaU94o4M49FvXrH_gp3l7mBUFpe0EPSgKO5_q8lbCjBH2KO5mEjtur0CYut8H9rWpmYL9VpxUv8bS1fVc-l9x7bUdiF4eXMGGBYcmNwkL1XjX6cQGq1WkR2xO6rJeBS0gYZo9mzQkKztJNeZBx-BiLq-hW/s320/28%20array%20heptagons.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Heptagon x 28</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">More spastic patterns can be made using a circular number of vectors that isn't a multiple of the polygon sides, or picking something other than a corner of the polygon to spin/copy it with. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4YorvSgPDKtRTdRPqFl6uV2A02nBnlbmVPEOT7LvjKrvMT7CIqpMmb65Z-_b11d901REsdPNC7XiiLqY_t0pOuJijeLU2bYA_s_YydJcTVqHqFzuXdSBPN8M7Pvh0X4BUvm0woikq857sdYRdlaH1xQpgf4T4MUj4p9laVZMwWwGr5EWgUL-TLOodCczK/s1649/Odd%20Heptagon%20Pattern.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1649" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4YorvSgPDKtRTdRPqFl6uV2A02nBnlbmVPEOT7LvjKrvMT7CIqpMmb65Z-_b11d901REsdPNC7XiiLqY_t0pOuJijeLU2bYA_s_YydJcTVqHqFzuXdSBPN8M7Pvh0X4BUvm0woikq857sdYRdlaH1xQpgf4T4MUj4p9laVZMwWwGr5EWgUL-TLOodCczK/s320/Odd%20Heptagon%20Pattern.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Heptagons offset</span></td></tr></tbody></table>Above is a pattern made using a heptagon that was offset from where the center was spun about. Given that there are 360 degrees in a circle to spin about, and a nearly infinite selection of positions you can spin different polygons about, the possibilities are endless.</span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">For a furniture project the vectors could be flattened to fit on the face of a drawer front, or used on cabinet doors to add some interesting detail. Here are a couple of drawer fronts:</span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqvSum-HsNFgQRIP-NzDjNDytXc4BQwtE4PlskYAkbZ4b9zWgfg_OJu2O1_YweeND5Uh97SDQi0qla39rrmX9sZtoGLp7M5pHZURT_g3QE2r9M9tmi9F_QUTzLpYCUfcfWeaw91rxoMec0yK-7ttgvZf6YeqOig14IQUs4TGUbepIBrW2tsl9DcnAXGyLY/s1387/Circle%20pattern%20drawer%20front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1387" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqvSum-HsNFgQRIP-NzDjNDytXc4BQwtE4PlskYAkbZ4b9zWgfg_OJu2O1_YweeND5Uh97SDQi0qla39rrmX9sZtoGLp7M5pHZURT_g3QE2r9M9tmi9F_QUTzLpYCUfcfWeaw91rxoMec0yK-7ttgvZf6YeqOig14IQUs4TGUbepIBrW2tsl9DcnAXGyLY/s320/Circle%20pattern%20drawer%20front.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBe5e3B0gLLK17CssstVX1t8PlO9ADFOppRUpqetxALX9MQPMbWHnxb-7RTqf3TH-tFi5e6EHmQ35VaObOI8H-pTG3lDtqm1R8hP1RuI2kCrZKzO6kqQUAeMKSMddKAeVXW_aSr11iiVAKWAGtzlo0sRoyJ7o8yIIecDrCSyBZGhD3chWRuDbg68XfHyYz/s1387/Drawer%20Front%20option.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1387" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBe5e3B0gLLK17CssstVX1t8PlO9ADFOppRUpqetxALX9MQPMbWHnxb-7RTqf3TH-tFi5e6EHmQ35VaObOI8H-pTG3lDtqm1R8hP1RuI2kCrZKzO6kqQUAeMKSMddKAeVXW_aSr11iiVAKWAGtzlo0sRoyJ7o8yIIecDrCSyBZGhD3chWRuDbg68XfHyYz/s320/Drawer%20Front%20option.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;">Where necessary a circle area in the center could be left uncarved to allow for a place to screw in a handle/knob. The sectioned areas don't have to have straight sides. The top drawer front pattern was done using a circle spun 16 copies around a center point. </span> <br /><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Questions? Leave a comment. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">4D</span></p><p><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span> </p></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-10574528296958685712023-07-18T14:13:00.004-06:002023-12-07T18:25:06.786-06:00Drop Leaf Table Design and the Square Root of 3.<p><span style="font-size: medium;">The previous post of a table showed a top that when folded in half remained the same length to width ratio. When folded up the table top took up 50% of the area it did when unfolded. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">This alternate design pushes the concept to a practical limit by using the square root of 3 to make a table that is 1/3 of it's unfolded size when folded up. A table base that is inset just a little more than 20% but not more than 25% will support 3 table sections when unfolded but allow the two outer sections to fold down when rotated 90 degrees. The base length to width ratio is the same as the unfolded table top above it. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">This 1/3 design starts with a wood panel that is 24" x 96" (or 2' x 8'). Using 1/3 of the length as the maximum width of our table top, we can determine the largest possible table top we can make using the square root of 3 ratio.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">1/3 of 96 is 32. The square root of 3 is 1.732. 32/1.732 = 18.48". So the dimensions of each table top section will be 32" x 18.48" . This will also be the maximum footprint of the table base. Three of these sections will make up the unfolded table top at 32" x (18.48 x 3) or 32" x 55.4". This table top should seat 6. </span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63yAVGJ-0nOXkfIpg47bgRa6IEeFzWcjrVh2Fvi-yd8nlxCRXgTje40ESji8vw8JLqnqwereehm6nqvF72CDSsdSyuxteMEO7tf5yCwLFhVS2h2CNiocY1PfkdkD85G0EyhaondG-rUoJYZi6-k5_i3p60Oe7LygoUZfu3vfQzMXPaofi16mff0lYDW6p/s1649/Folded%20down%203x.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1649" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63yAVGJ-0nOXkfIpg47bgRa6IEeFzWcjrVh2Fvi-yd8nlxCRXgTje40ESji8vw8JLqnqwereehm6nqvF72CDSsdSyuxteMEO7tf5yCwLFhVS2h2CNiocY1PfkdkD85G0EyhaondG-rUoJYZi6-k5_i3p60Oe7LygoUZfu3vfQzMXPaofi16mff0lYDW6p/s320/Folded%20down%203x.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Top ends folded down</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbr3ZCatAZJcO0puDCRfzshKaMlp1xxUFI2bwOU5lICJIGMO3iNja0ANG00PTgm_tNuBxjIAnM-8yBXVGl7vWtxugb7CtnH_qZQOQmKTTW6kg3o9_uART1MzUlUMSir0uUUTYegc1-M4YFrgqo7o_EJazJjnrH6XyDt_N3K_rNztDj316H-8SV03Hseyi/s1649/folded%20up%203x.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1649" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbr3ZCatAZJcO0puDCRfzshKaMlp1xxUFI2bwOU5lICJIGMO3iNja0ANG00PTgm_tNuBxjIAnM-8yBXVGl7vWtxugb7CtnH_qZQOQmKTTW6kg3o9_uART1MzUlUMSir0uUUTYegc1-M4YFrgqo7o_EJazJjnrH6XyDt_N3K_rNztDj316H-8SV03Hseyi/s320/folded%20up%203x.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Top ends lifted up before rotating</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk9pm9gLJimAE1Nfsmhi8ike1NEfHr1_KtPP0yMi6KpQXC5C-VTpPevCtrpUH_JsgIFwmKQSMpT-iCBb5yEqMh1YmnOUjda4Dixydr2o6a_HD-iauU10rnhfqjmFuMapQuQOwaIclM5g5_V8ooUR5A3nbfBCrZPTwDhJlKzMyngmhDkB7fInAlHATnQ7VV/s1649/Underside%20view%203x.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1649" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk9pm9gLJimAE1Nfsmhi8ike1NEfHr1_KtPP0yMi6KpQXC5C-VTpPevCtrpUH_JsgIFwmKQSMpT-iCBb5yEqMh1YmnOUjda4Dixydr2o6a_HD-iauU10rnhfqjmFuMapQuQOwaIclM5g5_V8ooUR5A3nbfBCrZPTwDhJlKzMyngmhDkB7fInAlHATnQ7VV/s320/Underside%20view%203x.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Rotated over the legs for support</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOqoOygC2ghM8f_vQeExpCRJbypPipuZBbTyadlqTznLNrfPnmM9Xbe75-qAB7nmiOZET6eV_LUPchcsh6y8XcrKCvvTDkq6IY7ANSMwacNsu2Tamfo1EpVhxb-ovpAYdTF-AJ_NCHpw0vCe6TGhzId-DRuLdn8Gk0fVRF1sGy_RW1tvMCN5a2PGxr5HF/s1649/Rotate%20over%20base%203x.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1649" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOqoOygC2ghM8f_vQeExpCRJbypPipuZBbTyadlqTznLNrfPnmM9Xbe75-qAB7nmiOZET6eV_LUPchcsh6y8XcrKCvvTDkq6IY7ANSMwacNsu2Tamfo1EpVhxb-ovpAYdTF-AJ_NCHpw0vCe6TGhzId-DRuLdn8Gk0fVRF1sGy_RW1tvMCN5a2PGxr5HF/s320/Rotate%20over%20base%203x.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Square Rt. of 3 Proportions.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The top pivots around the center of the base. The pinwheel stretcher configuration makes room for a center plate where the pivot can be placed.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Obviously the legs could be more interesting. The top would have a nice edge profile. A classic drop leaf connection and hinges would be used to allow the top ends to hinge down after rotating 90 degrees. Tops of the legs have a teflon t-peg in them to allow the top to rotate smoothly over them. The center section of the top has a metal post that slips into a bronze bushing in the wood plate between the stretchers. It is held in with a spring, washer and wing nut to allow some tensioned lift when rotating.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Final details needed can only be determined if I ever make such a table. This post is simply a parking place for ideas I've had over the past 4 decades.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Question? Leave a comment.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4D<br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-50178877164904835902023-07-17T18:14:00.001-06:002023-07-18T22:20:56.577-06:00Another useful Geometry Application. Furniture Using The Square Root of 2.<p><span style="font-size: medium;">When I taught furniture design to college students one project assignment was to design a table that could be reduced by 50% and still be useful when the starting dimension wasn't needed. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">This is one useful solution that my students have used several times over the years. It uses the Square Root of 2 (1.414213562373095) to create a rectangle that remains the same width to length ratio when folded in half. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">In this example I have a wood panel to use that is 24" x 36" x 3/4" thick. If I use the 24" side as the width of my table top and multiply it by 1.41... I get 33.94.... So with 36" of potential length I have room for the kerf of a table saw or CNC 1/4" profile cut. </span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUSEQsX7nePLnkBXU3J3ZAR1Uas3AC7pouJg4qZzdccg-DEYqrYpTv8e0wpcpvAHuYkXENUQKqz6Myn15GApo9v6qWd-JPOpgHHRnvC_ZAlQgSVSffPETvISMs9rQeZedpazbLoEbIlUwh_TM5ykQrqf8SDrY3WFtfAMIvLmZlP5h8s1YjGi_1Xvuq7KhB/s1649/SqRt%20Table%20Top%20whole.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1649" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUSEQsX7nePLnkBXU3J3ZAR1Uas3AC7pouJg4qZzdccg-DEYqrYpTv8e0wpcpvAHuYkXENUQKqz6Myn15GApo9v6qWd-JPOpgHHRnvC_ZAlQgSVSffPETvISMs9rQeZedpazbLoEbIlUwh_TM5ykQrqf8SDrY3WFtfAMIvLmZlP5h8s1YjGi_1Xvuq7KhB/s320/SqRt%20Table%20Top%20whole.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The Whole Top</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">One half of this 24 x 33.94" top is 16.95 x 24. When rotate 90 degrees and centered over the base it is the same ratio as the starting dimension.</span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpuZH30_zuwCUe6CLlj673qzRvFpwupsa5Qf2_lSpCXM_ekianqgjxcU0XlCqQfmcUyILbN0yNd-Aku-8QKFQWVeZ4rviZaEdpGFIIEOo10iRLWsd176GJQHykffxOtRcWS-D5WaqVctc3_O_hjaDM3Y5EbPt-dpehdUk3LBzyqhyab5PjNKycmPaffyA/s1649/SqRt%20Table%20Top%20half.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1649" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpuZH30_zuwCUe6CLlj673qzRvFpwupsa5Qf2_lSpCXM_ekianqgjxcU0XlCqQfmcUyILbN0yNd-Aku-8QKFQWVeZ4rviZaEdpGFIIEOo10iRLWsd176GJQHykffxOtRcWS-D5WaqVctc3_O_hjaDM3Y5EbPt-dpehdUk3LBzyqhyab5PjNKycmPaffyA/s320/SqRt%20Table%20Top%20half.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Half the Top</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Soss hinges between the table halves are hidden when unfolded, but will be visible on the inner edge when folded in half.</span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8bWcA6ZT0bfFaOOXfxMvyuwGTt7PzqBy-FNu3bhTQGgm29VfK1EXgHt4kuoLF_MYQEyZZfMO5S8cYTgVmZrRSQflgmgOCGxFlBx9_QxvQ07d-OrTaWGX1SPV8MJCWV_6N52qttOT6iiS7-pmiisqVNA-SNXxzGBxD350F4yek4ubupxrxGXgUtSQnbIWc/s1649/Rotated%20and%20centered.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1649" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8bWcA6ZT0bfFaOOXfxMvyuwGTt7PzqBy-FNu3bhTQGgm29VfK1EXgHt4kuoLF_MYQEyZZfMO5S8cYTgVmZrRSQflgmgOCGxFlBx9_QxvQ07d-OrTaWGX1SPV8MJCWV_6N52qttOT6iiS7-pmiisqVNA-SNXxzGBxD350F4yek4ubupxrxGXgUtSQnbIWc/s320/Rotated%20and%20centered.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Rotated and Centered</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">One challenge was to find a single point of rotation for the top that would keep the top centered over the base after being folded over and rotated 90 degrees. </span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNiyUn9sTsh7_3Fho_S8h4QY0kykgPj1Fe9k2wmqOSMRJJPd_orrhE1kVyAY-yUbiXYHCW7ehDS7kH9TS2BV_Uxz5KxmGm9ez5PY7aAMSLsQvgeBwCEw692VjKrbuPCWCa6ywlWn0nfZkR3Hwc2kQCkhDuMbHlmgkpcNKiFHOVXx9aWKw32DGGiUHvfviP/s867/45%20degrees%20from%20center%20of%20staring%20position.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="867" data-original-width="693" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNiyUn9sTsh7_3Fho_S8h4QY0kykgPj1Fe9k2wmqOSMRJJPd_orrhE1kVyAY-yUbiXYHCW7ehDS7kH9TS2BV_Uxz5KxmGm9ez5PY7aAMSLsQvgeBwCEw692VjKrbuPCWCa6ywlWn0nfZkR3Hwc2kQCkhDuMbHlmgkpcNKiFHOVXx9aWKw32DGGiUHvfviP/s320/45%20degrees%20from%20center%20of%20staring%20position.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Project a line from the center of 1/2</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">To find a common point that will be in the same position between unfolded and folded/rotated draw a line 45 degree from the center of the side that will be on the bottom and rotated. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0mhniA3FzSKG_ol-H9z2xdB1lveGTMJCn4CzCSKlBiD272MQWGmJmIlwf86j26nKbQMk870BOz6e3gKyN3S1on5NMTym8wLKZ_e9apfhdbAAoVkFLcvEeGYJeWMAA40bWtDV6Ddex81B6F_kBvBRciMkJIQ5JtN0epMIYvIdeN8by8z_f9r13_ards0Rn/s883/45%20degrees%20from%20rotated%20posiition.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="883" data-original-width="685" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0mhniA3FzSKG_ol-H9z2xdB1lveGTMJCn4CzCSKlBiD272MQWGmJmIlwf86j26nKbQMk870BOz6e3gKyN3S1on5NMTym8wLKZ_e9apfhdbAAoVkFLcvEeGYJeWMAA40bWtDV6Ddex81B6F_kBvBRciMkJIQ5JtN0epMIYvIdeN8by8z_f9r13_ards0Rn/s320/45%20degrees%20from%20rotated%20posiition.jpg" width="248" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Project the same line, but from the rotated/centered outline.</span> </td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Draw the same 45 degree line from the rotated view of the bottom half. Where those lines intersect is the only point the top can be rotated about to remain centered over the base in both positions.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The inner outline shown in the 2 views above is the outline of a base that would be inset 20% from the large perimeter. You can see it is still inset a small amount under the folded top. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Here is one option for a base. The legs extend to the inner edge of the 20% inset outline. A bracket attaches to one stretcher to provide a pivot position for the top to rotate about. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3RHySwenBtf4puAOwAeyBNtt7zLnNKDMMafdLZagTPKLsCqmPAer0baoUw45Xsz4P1ghatIkmEdZh1g3A5TS4nKwAvMBcX7txbvjaVBQzwpLpOWynPng3MEbwggvDAoLJJv4Rgrnkf5MUCG86Us_cFKoZv0NFR58pbYdiACHnUPd6JxuDp6efSLuW87qi/s1649/Fold%20top%20on%20base.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1649" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3RHySwenBtf4puAOwAeyBNtt7zLnNKDMMafdLZagTPKLsCqmPAer0baoUw45Xsz4P1ghatIkmEdZh1g3A5TS4nKwAvMBcX7txbvjaVBQzwpLpOWynPng3MEbwggvDAoLJJv4Rgrnkf5MUCG86Us_cFKoZv0NFR58pbYdiACHnUPd6JxuDp6efSLuW87qi/s320/Fold%20top%20on%20base.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Under the folded top.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWtIgcjD8mM8fMBPjUVIBvsjPe94DZqSYW5jAtDm0wsutRQFPMdKIk1i_uqoGBPEbugU0obpIFAOkDXNQSB3d5lZoQ0rvLWA1RateUV84DxX6xW8pxU4drv_muN0aBPMl-tpYbdBeh05Utt8Sn1mP1Nv0QMaG5psvaLlNUs-b-bbmtGyDcDujSTaujffaL/s1649/With%20Base.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1649" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWtIgcjD8mM8fMBPjUVIBvsjPe94DZqSYW5jAtDm0wsutRQFPMdKIk1i_uqoGBPEbugU0obpIFAOkDXNQSB3d5lZoQ0rvLWA1RateUV84DxX6xW8pxU4drv_muN0aBPMl-tpYbdBeh05Utt8Sn1mP1Nv0QMaG5psvaLlNUs-b-bbmtGyDcDujSTaujffaL/s320/With%20Base.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Under the open top.</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span><span style="font-size: medium;">Need a larger table? What is the largest rectangle of that same sq.rt. of 2 ratio that can be made from a 24" x 60" panel? Account for a 1/8" wide kerf on any cuts. How much scrap will be left after cutting the two table halves?</span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">As the table base is a little smaller than 1/2 of the table top, you could also make the folded half a drop leaf rather than just double the smaller top thickness. This side would hang down and block access to one side of the base, but if that is not important the table top will benefit from being the same height above the floor in both unfolded and dropped side positions. <br /></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Leave a comment if you need any more information.<br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4D<br /><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><br /><br /></span></p></div></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-6641047899271359052023-07-09T08:17:00.014-06:002024-01-04T18:03:57.643-06:00Dividing Any Line into 3rds or 5ths Using a Triangle. <p><span style="font-size: medium;"> <span>I discovered this method to divide any line into 3 or 5 equal sections by just playing around with the drafting features of my CNC software. It has come in handy many times while creating joinery for furniture connections. Sizing a tenon for the end of a stretcher there is a 1/3 rule which suggests the tenon thickness should be 1/3 the thickness of the stretcher. When I'm connecting a narrow board into a wider board I like to increase the relative size of the tenon to 3/5ths of the stretcher thickness. One 5th for the perimeter shoulder and three 5ths for the tenon. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I haven't seen this method used anywhere on the web or in print. It may exist out there some where. When I look for methods to divide any line by 3 or 5 equal sections I find most use an adjacent connected line with marked off known segments, projected parallel across to the starting vector to divide it. I used that trick when drafting was done with a parallel bar, triangles, compass and straight edges. There is another easy trick to dividing the width of a board using a ruler/scale held diagonally across the board at marks equal to the number of divisions you want. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">This triangle method starts by adding two lines to your starting vector to make a triangle. Now find the center points of all three sides of the triangle. This works with any size or shape of triangle, although the density of lines created is easier to draw and see on a large triangle closer to equilateral. Be accurate. Mistakes here propagate through following steps. </span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirr9mq_V0nHYZw-22KslQ7L-RjfxO3cee9JeeAV49kVYX1NjoTICo8HVD0IOYq0LAaT47mz8ToHpARIqGPk4dtjnJ_l70uXpbsesdUw3QWwfXTfDznINWsgsHf49ujOHKU9bI2yCdBWQqfI5rKxRLLOa9aScBD1icMGTa34KwtNJ0VRRf3pmLG5dlC5EjW/s888/Find%20Side%20Center%20Points.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="706" data-original-width="888" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirr9mq_V0nHYZw-22KslQ7L-RjfxO3cee9JeeAV49kVYX1NjoTICo8HVD0IOYq0LAaT47mz8ToHpARIqGPk4dtjnJ_l70uXpbsesdUw3QWwfXTfDznINWsgsHf49ujOHKU9bI2yCdBWQqfI5rKxRLLOa9aScBD1icMGTa34KwtNJ0VRRf3pmLG5dlC5EjW/s320/Find%20Side%20Center%20Points.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Find Centers of Each Side.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Next connect the centers to each other.</span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3GRShVy9P8XlCPfWe-Nsd2S0zpaNi3I3FTTovaJAYrw34Y9dAg_K8YqPub8VCQE-Q2_WNxLQrRXSHRXExqv76hc8sjon5WSvjNKCgwi8e9YGCwBNcGoG74HtK13pRNJFdTpSljlyB3LlmJTAebPQ5A4fWk8RsC01pnOQRcmDC0mhu1-pZYWffZ5wJdGv4/s865/Connect%20Center%20Points.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="736" data-original-width="865" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3GRShVy9P8XlCPfWe-Nsd2S0zpaNi3I3FTTovaJAYrw34Y9dAg_K8YqPub8VCQE-Q2_WNxLQrRXSHRXExqv76hc8sjon5WSvjNKCgwi8e9YGCwBNcGoG74HtK13pRNJFdTpSljlyB3LlmJTAebPQ5A4fWk8RsC01pnOQRcmDC0mhu1-pZYWffZ5wJdGv4/s320/Connect%20Center%20Points.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Connect Centers</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Now draw in the medians by connecting the corners to the opposing center points.</span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJuB8CURootKiMKiDKmfZbB-SdPQeUNmj85O4eRtOe1zaz6GO1oOq0TY6rUVpzTP9pYzZSrV1EJW0fwk7VG3OSiTatIcDSnUXa7Na4zyBIyY8xosFZ_ASX2CxZ6AemX82-mI0sopFVeLjNKzEWUHLoC8fxU7UFskXlH5TfzE28HQUvpA96UfA3Okq_coEN/s1154/Connect%20Corners%20to%20Opposing%20Center%20Points.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="839" data-original-width="1154" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJuB8CURootKiMKiDKmfZbB-SdPQeUNmj85O4eRtOe1zaz6GO1oOq0TY6rUVpzTP9pYzZSrV1EJW0fwk7VG3OSiTatIcDSnUXa7Na4zyBIyY8xosFZ_ASX2CxZ6AemX82-mI0sopFVeLjNKzEWUHLoC8fxU7UFskXlH5TfzE28HQUvpA96UfA3Okq_coEN/s320/Connect%20Corners%20to%20Opposing%20Center%20Points.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Corners to Centers</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">You can see where each center line intersects the center triangle lines. If you draw a line from a corner through the opposing intersections, it will cross the opposing face at 1/3 over from a corner. </span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBL7kE6YqnbGh9YKNX280s0WlrmdUGjYngeQK6YUkUlAlh_po6rMwIOcV1KgkzrsOmTHxLQHysaxamfxoBbwTDJ2eGiLHJREtX-6VAE4BXwV-XTKT67HhmNe1L0UR1XSeQZAF83eCF7Pc9-zGGUr7vWoP1dHCgpEVYLrVXfhVXSHKU-utotQBhOsg0o7K_/s1017/Connect%20from%20Corner%20to%20Intersections%20to%20Opposing%20Side.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="763" data-original-width="1017" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBL7kE6YqnbGh9YKNX280s0WlrmdUGjYngeQK6YUkUlAlh_po6rMwIOcV1KgkzrsOmTHxLQHysaxamfxoBbwTDJ2eGiLHJREtX-6VAE4BXwV-XTKT67HhmNe1L0UR1XSeQZAF83eCF7Pc9-zGGUr7vWoP1dHCgpEVYLrVXfhVXSHKU-utotQBhOsg0o7K_/s320/Connect%20from%20Corner%20to%20Intersections%20to%20Opposing%20Side.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Thirds, in Red</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span>Do this for all 3 sides.</span></span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf3AYnlblgzA9XeSowzxEJ63qXnYFjwLGf4lOltMtCwKB7ZACMB9aCA6YrIWzpgRr55bV0wb-khJDMvHEWFhcEP-2K4URc6CZ7VGUOUNPJyVt3__ibumpP-YjKnxl-sdG4yKrW8Xh5MblSIoYZW9kMVog_HxfUv32VLOcRS6VZ5DVsVncKh_lKfFmUkN61/s990/Thirds%20on%20each%20side.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="802" data-original-width="990" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf3AYnlblgzA9XeSowzxEJ63qXnYFjwLGf4lOltMtCwKB7ZACMB9aCA6YrIWzpgRr55bV0wb-khJDMvHEWFhcEP-2K4URc6CZ7VGUOUNPJyVt3__ibumpP-YjKnxl-sdG4yKrW8Xh5MblSIoYZW9kMVog_HxfUv32VLOcRS6VZ5DVsVncKh_lKfFmUkN61/s320/Thirds%20on%20each%20side.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>3rds on all 3 sides</span>.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The new vectors intersect the previous vectors, and provide useful nodes we can use to divide each side into 5 equal segments. </span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-RSKtrF9LUWF26Q0YBjNsXGm5vSmvD83aD8uNyWu8I_jpzo56dG2cfXKCkIS-MTv_rOd1Tbi4YBmG0Olv9IFtasecIQ3Bj8Ejf4n_Y6pQEE7r65Z5BHth9tCWuR6h4jpYJaps0u-5z3fUGq9hSfIuuRMjRPBbvhHppR0nERlfD2wFyGJqHA3KmRRrs8BD/s1053/Project%20to%20find%205ths.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="821" data-original-width="1053" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-RSKtrF9LUWF26Q0YBjNsXGm5vSmvD83aD8uNyWu8I_jpzo56dG2cfXKCkIS-MTv_rOd1Tbi4YBmG0Olv9IFtasecIQ3Bj8Ejf4n_Y6pQEE7r65Z5BHth9tCWuR6h4jpYJaps0u-5z3fUGq9hSfIuuRMjRPBbvhHppR0nERlfD2wFyGJqHA3KmRRrs8BD/s320/Project%20to%20find%205ths.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>Project to find 5ths, in Green</span>.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">It is easy to get confused about which intersections to use. Basically for each face there is a red/red, a red/black. a red/black. and a red/red intersection to pass through. </span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6cYLRuEk2oC8v0PaEYHsreldh4QEbg517tTIqL1qXwt4NxS-aqx0G1nHh67PYLUMV21y6ovpkwRZNJA4P5YCua9zVBlLR5UXr8qmrXiVINp8akoHFkG0DAxZwgHcYDxdHlrFUm9HLh1Mn8QuH-NpbXyJZV8ckIPmd_T9k8ycsS3by_4HAfYr3hEgAM_L/s1239/5ths.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="876" data-original-width="1239" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6cYLRuEk2oC8v0PaEYHsreldh4QEbg517tTIqL1qXwt4NxS-aqx0G1nHh67PYLUMV21y6ovpkwRZNJA4P5YCua9zVBlLR5UXr8qmrXiVINp8akoHFkG0DAxZwgHcYDxdHlrFUm9HLh1Mn8QuH-NpbXyJZV8ckIPmd_T9k8ycsS3by_4HAfYr3hEgAM_L/s320/5ths.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>5 Equal Segments</span>.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">I usually only need to go far enough to find 5ths on one side, but it is easy to project the other two sides to divide them both into 5 segments.</span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji81G2dVKV7sQmg9FEKuV4K1ZQUdk4A_y8E4NeUfBo1D6MSGsRv2Dq3FcOLl1KPz7KH2riuwSWJUByE8YG85tHv04AN64HYJ3N44-kwi3PzgrCPiVfl3BcByR-TcbbGjUjcE53Job1fbk4Ephr3pQd7kAwR5U1binAAJbkv0x-1BPTQGYiidO0Ek8SNRTb/s877/5ths%20on%203%20sides.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="714" data-original-width="877" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji81G2dVKV7sQmg9FEKuV4K1ZQUdk4A_y8E4NeUfBo1D6MSGsRv2Dq3FcOLl1KPz7KH2riuwSWJUByE8YG85tHv04AN64HYJ3N44-kwi3PzgrCPiVfl3BcByR-TcbbGjUjcE53Job1fbk4Ephr3pQd7kAwR5U1binAAJbkv0x-1BPTQGYiidO0Ek8SNRTb/s320/5ths%20on%203%20sides.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">5ths on all 3 Sides.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">There are further divisions that can be found with the new intersections created. I rarely need 7ths or 9ths though and have a much more automated way of dividing line segments in my CNC software. </span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">For example:</span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5GTXcuuKlo1kA6qhxYK_Q-vFPwP9qb4-R_CBQIOMzIEpPlbO3M_JW3e9Smc2pWjxVlcpJhjMeAl6GZ9y64l_Q1n_Gt_OxPWd7GxtX1WjDjf0ejPtEup8eyY3DSMBbuSVzVjAm8v5fjpHqTZhxEb1nNe8sjnQpwJ9Pq4kvGjvQk9-BaFzv6rcdezJCMdnx/s990/7ths%20on%20one%20side.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="831" data-original-width="990" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5GTXcuuKlo1kA6qhxYK_Q-vFPwP9qb4-R_CBQIOMzIEpPlbO3M_JW3e9Smc2pWjxVlcpJhjMeAl6GZ9y64l_Q1n_Gt_OxPWd7GxtX1WjDjf0ejPtEup8eyY3DSMBbuSVzVjAm8v5fjpHqTZhxEb1nNe8sjnQpwJ9Pq4kvGjvQk9-BaFzv6rcdezJCMdnx/s320/7ths%20on%20one%20side.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">7ths. In Orange. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg3rxKtvU5c7wKnPttafcfXENBIvhZyc6SgDiScxcT8t7k-9wVe-p9agg3SLHNA6XVLaDiSag0LFaer8Am6g4GAiPce93gki_VLrbfmK17W2qPr0tE5XWJcvV47UlGlQQCv40G9odDuk8ftvGrwVo9eN8_AeqpMw_nUp6gf8MwTJLhAQqUyUlImMWQTP0V/s944/9ths%20on%20one%20side.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="867" data-original-width="944" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg3rxKtvU5c7wKnPttafcfXENBIvhZyc6SgDiScxcT8t7k-9wVe-p9agg3SLHNA6XVLaDiSag0LFaer8Am6g4GAiPce93gki_VLrbfmK17W2qPr0tE5XWJcvV47UlGlQQCv40G9odDuk8ftvGrwVo9eN8_AeqpMw_nUp6gf8MwTJLhAQqUyUlImMWQTP0V/s320/9ths%20on%20one%20side.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">9ths. In Purple</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span>I suspect this method will work for odd numbers up to infinity so long as you have infinite patience and a very very fine pencil. I extended it to 11ths with no trouble but the density of vectors is making it harder with each step up.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirDaAoPBnjjNjdhzSJWIQO5VT1w_HKZYnO71DqUFIE_uZX54-ufg5fkc72UYYS26ddDVQYVf0CFg2Oc0XkyJSrVg_HMo9M73EsTOhU2SSM3DeQVRlJcgb4qXagTwsUFRnOLVmy7GCZ4MNHSOIASN6-N6kHd8mQtftVB_It5Cb6cQ_yhVnmZzM43YQ7tPBe/s792/11ths.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="763" data-original-width="792" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirDaAoPBnjjNjdhzSJWIQO5VT1w_HKZYnO71DqUFIE_uZX54-ufg5fkc72UYYS26ddDVQYVf0CFg2Oc0XkyJSrVg_HMo9M73EsTOhU2SSM3DeQVRlJcgb4qXagTwsUFRnOLVmy7GCZ4MNHSOIASN6-N6kHd8mQtftVB_It5Cb6cQ_yhVnmZzM43YQ7tPBe/s320/11ths.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">11ths</span></td></tr></tbody></table>Of course since 13 is a lucky number I went ahead and proved that 13 segments of a vector can also be found. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsMf__hgR4PlmVTrYE6U0Gmyh56Wv1cRUMO2txV2vzH0I9CMg5TCb6stKzTfyfOMNJmqbOltYRAgX1ng1843dFM68VPROlS7NeAiEnLtVKbdEmRrcZ3CkLNIgHZJkkbuGBhm1yDoC3kep8nnlOlJMRvkVsgb0pbp5FwjH7KC3WrhF64cr0AB6AvLYgolG6/s782/13ths.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="782" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsMf__hgR4PlmVTrYE6U0Gmyh56Wv1cRUMO2txV2vzH0I9CMg5TCb6stKzTfyfOMNJmqbOltYRAgX1ng1843dFM68VPROlS7NeAiEnLtVKbdEmRrcZ3CkLNIgHZJkkbuGBhm1yDoC3kep8nnlOlJMRvkVsgb0pbp5FwjH7KC3WrhF64cr0AB6AvLYgolG6/s320/13ths.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">13ths. Just Because.</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I dedicate this post to my Sister Vickie's husband Chris Z. A useful application of geometry. 3rds and 5ths (and 7 and 9 and 11 and 13), with no parallel lines needed. If no one else before me has discovered this method, I name it the D.A.Brown Method. Published here first on 7/9/2023. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">As a final teaser, you can also divide the triangle sides by even numbered segments using a variation of projected lines through intersections of previous vectors used. Although this works with any shape of triangles, you can also do the same with 4 sided polygons. With rectangles, trapezoids, or parallelograms this is easiest to see. How about 5 sided polygons? </span></div><div><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4D<br /><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-1032619992440048152023-07-06T12:33:00.001-06:002023-07-06T12:33:34.912-06:00Zero Clearance Fence for my Miter Saw<p> <span style="font-size: medium;">The normal gap between fence sides of most miter saws is wide enough to allow rotating the blade angle or tilting the blade for angled or compound miter cuts. This gap width is a bit dangerous for making small cutoffs. The small cutoff part can get kicked back and thrown by the blade. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I made this zero-clearance fence add-on to add safety to my Bosch Glide miter saw. </span></p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK7ejFcMBP-fxLA_P0KxF5BglasmWlZElLHqGO537oT3mbez8PhfxtKpEgzTZV6UrhbDggU6XoePB5gap__SPXVeP4Ja7IrZoB6kFcspxQ-XSbvAihjyxmMv-hyi1hjYay-6MbYmfOiVECiEMVB5BT9oSsREi4IDF9kA9L1BTPBtqWwz9MdNIWP0fW3Bo9/s1080/Zero%20clearance%20fence%20installed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK7ejFcMBP-fxLA_P0KxF5BglasmWlZElLHqGO537oT3mbez8PhfxtKpEgzTZV6UrhbDggU6XoePB5gap__SPXVeP4Ja7IrZoB6kFcspxQ-XSbvAihjyxmMv-hyi1hjYay-6MbYmfOiVECiEMVB5BT9oSsREi4IDF9kA9L1BTPBtqWwz9MdNIWP0fW3Bo9/s320/Zero%20clearance%20fence%20installed.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Zero Clearance</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The saw already had holes in the fence side for bolts. A quick measure of height off the bed and location side-to-side of all the holes and I drew of patterns for these parts in my CNC software. What the CNC thought it would be cutting out:</span></p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZJl1r7vqV03HXHx0u65rMJM3qfqnzPV5d5fV2d4-MKj6A2Br-fhkyYcu9DMWB-x696aeVncTNP23CQunNGfidpGZnkvSrNl4dUsncD2MNbK1-85iEY_m_7yHu2C49wzBt9k4Z59nN0qH6f-OZD8qQ5hDpHLqovEjvpn-Z-ymO4CS_TYP0DBNLXBGplhoE/s1387/Fence%20plates.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1387" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZJl1r7vqV03HXHx0u65rMJM3qfqnzPV5d5fV2d4-MKj6A2Br-fhkyYcu9DMWB-x696aeVncTNP23CQunNGfidpGZnkvSrNl4dUsncD2MNbK1-85iEY_m_7yHu2C49wzBt9k4Z59nN0qH6f-OZD8qQ5hDpHLqovEjvpn-Z-ymO4CS_TYP0DBNLXBGplhoE/s320/Fence%20plates.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Cut from 1/2" plywood</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The slots allow me to slide the plywood back one inch. The top half of the fence itself can be loosened and slid back to allow miter cuts with the blade tipped down. I can open up the gap a small amount for angled miter cuts with the blade remaining vertical. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">1/4-20 T-bolts are used with wing nuts on the back side to hold the add-ons in place. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I've posted a .CRV3D (Aspire) and a .CRV (VCarve) file on Vectric's forum for anyone using their software. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Comments welcomed</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4D<br /><br /></span></p>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-16816670854581895942023-06-30T07:10:00.000-06:002023-06-30T07:10:42.962-06:00 A Board Stretcher Joint. Just for Fun.<p><span style="font-size: medium;">These are renderings from my CNC software of a zipper joint I came up with. A simple way to connect the ends of two boards. Easy to cut using a 3/16" end mill with the boards clamped flat. This joint could even be used across the center of a table top. For furniture buyers with trouble deciding which woods they want their furniture to made from. </span> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkYD59x5pHNVw6X4EipHFAdmTivyvfR8f6j_021rTl6BzyXQCCgd77UlWEdhP2wFf2KzeVbBzQHDJA0Vue86uXicqWRicjAsqeOoj36gM0-kcZ45BJzgQ3wOblsoQbJ12uxwd-NXBjUFnaTT0TfMxbXNdOH3Pevz-5u92annNUHqKWM-cq0JiBCRb9YBVU/s1387/Zipper%20Joint%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1387" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkYD59x5pHNVw6X4EipHFAdmTivyvfR8f6j_021rTl6BzyXQCCgd77UlWEdhP2wFf2KzeVbBzQHDJA0Vue86uXicqWRicjAsqeOoj36gM0-kcZ45BJzgQ3wOblsoQbJ12uxwd-NXBjUFnaTT0TfMxbXNdOH3Pevz-5u92annNUHqKWM-cq0JiBCRb9YBVU/s320/Zipper%20Joint%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Mix wood types</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSaqg7bX8dA8oRZJoV5WP_2c4jmPOepzD9XJafld_AX674NmQZFyQQ5loF1r9J5YTckw09c2JQCkQJq_aH8SzOukWtoDVj8ABExt3fi5xd8A2-qUwbabKJPbaQ3Br2qVrdIceq6lFN4KMhWj73nuFonyaFMT5k7EAj9vVJIU0jhhT72gvgUG8RStL5d1dD/s1387/Zipper%20Joint%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1387" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSaqg7bX8dA8oRZJoV5WP_2c4jmPOepzD9XJafld_AX674NmQZFyQQ5loF1r9J5YTckw09c2JQCkQJq_aH8SzOukWtoDVj8ABExt3fi5xd8A2-qUwbabKJPbaQ3Br2qVrdIceq6lFN4KMhWj73nuFonyaFMT5k7EAj9vVJIU0jhhT72gvgUG8RStL5d1dD/s320/Zipper%20Joint%201.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Both sides use the same toolpath</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Are there schisms between members of your family? Sport fans who don't agree on the teams they support? Hardwoods are available in many colors, and two different colors of wood could be used to make a zippered table with both team colors. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Just for fun. Very possible. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4D </span></p>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-84175427459587198882023-06-23T18:12:00.000-06:002023-06-23T18:12:41.961-06:00Rotary Cut Radius Box Corners<span style="font-size: medium;">You can cut a rounded corner for a box as a two sided job on your CNC as shown in a previous post: <a href="https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2022/07/cnc-cut-radiused-corners-for-furniture.html" target="_blank">HERE</a></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">You can also cut the rounded corner on the rotary axis of your CNC from the same rectangular starting block. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimxB27RButqFfV2DTidk-tH-7RDMF2ld8A_yl946i09eVPcyXEpt3IWzmUZ1Jj6h2xbc0g1CYIdNk2dtCVLMGloXP6SNqyvoossqhf_lFbqqvlaTYar-5vMa4qUBn0uJP8icSzARlmitrFTvAlChAQ-GV2WcANfluXBxwUH5X5D5GXXKZSvqwnUSMCt11x/s1387/Rotary%20Cut%20Box%20Corner%20From%20Rectangle.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1387" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimxB27RButqFfV2DTidk-tH-7RDMF2ld8A_yl946i09eVPcyXEpt3IWzmUZ1Jj6h2xbc0g1CYIdNk2dtCVLMGloXP6SNqyvoossqhf_lFbqqvlaTYar-5vMa4qUBn0uJP8icSzARlmitrFTvAlChAQ-GV2WcANfluXBxwUH5X5D5GXXKZSvqwnUSMCt11x/s320/Rotary%20Cut%20Box%20Corner%20From%20Rectangle.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">16" Long 90 Degree Rounded Corner</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxS0g7u0y0FL2e07Szv8LlfGlTzXpu02tnktT1ktswJMI1HYs9rXuWizP4ofHscDBQfjcvLjMENveOdGgU7KCZyTWwlXtoiBdrsJoEFcfuIaVGM7fNrWImg9_9SE-bbzbtPd9SmPAojQgAFFJShGS2MgbtrAyllj_AtCDKgx37Z6-XP4sw44kLVrli1lKR/s1387/Rotary%20Cut%20Radius%20Box%20Corner%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1387" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxS0g7u0y0FL2e07Szv8LlfGlTzXpu02tnktT1ktswJMI1HYs9rXuWizP4ofHscDBQfjcvLjMENveOdGgU7KCZyTWwlXtoiBdrsJoEFcfuIaVGM7fNrWImg9_9SE-bbzbtPd9SmPAojQgAFFJShGS2MgbtrAyllj_AtCDKgx37Z6-XP4sw44kLVrli1lKR/s320/Rotary%20Cut%20Radius%20Box%20Corner%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">What the CNC thinks it is cutting</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtc6JQr6ZlxXVEBYSZsykjL0wx27iZEXHYhaofOzXhQAOGX3KBC36vl6XyLRnD_ihNoHOVczEV9g1tKFTxKKVWe_1z9fqVZA370mLjf_EAjW_cZ71P5rPgMAIgu1OyR1LMSMqc2_xiIoPr4tQDms0zoOiYXdHgQC-OU6I3DLOAwXAmk1Pi2jXlj6UNjPDF/s1387/Rotary%20Cut%20Radius%20Box%20Corner.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1387" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtc6JQr6ZlxXVEBYSZsykjL0wx27iZEXHYhaofOzXhQAOGX3KBC36vl6XyLRnD_ihNoHOVczEV9g1tKFTxKKVWe_1z9fqVZA370mLjf_EAjW_cZ71P5rPgMAIgu1OyR1LMSMqc2_xiIoPr4tQDms0zoOiYXdHgQC-OU6I3DLOAwXAmk1Pi2jXlj6UNjPDF/s320/Rotary%20Cut%20Radius%20Box%20Corner.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Actual ends shown in the first image</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The centers on the block ends must be a little lower than actual when mounting the block on the radial axis. The profile shape must be placed so all parts of the inner curve can be reached by the bit as it rotates around the center. Very little material is taken off the rectangular block compared to what would need to be removed from a cylinder of wood for the same result. No roughing pass is needed given the small stepover taken by the bit when cutting this shape from a block. For this example I used a 1/4" diameter ball nosed bit. </span><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4R9pkh2qyS2ptaqkRxFa1ggeL5bG4zWclE54eej4tR-UbLAo4klH9JqN5PV3wsXM5cP-w9768Whcur0eQOdLephiD2vO0ZNXH9NY7A4h8OMTVK8Hy5SBg05_kQFMC3yyZNawXvvOhC1fn4kZ9VGpSLqwhuZIj4edeVQhEBCDmcepdOuk6FPIDAn2wThaX/s1154/Round%20corner%20toolpaths.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1154" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4R9pkh2qyS2ptaqkRxFa1ggeL5bG4zWclE54eej4tR-UbLAo4klH9JqN5PV3wsXM5cP-w9768Whcur0eQOdLephiD2vO0ZNXH9NY7A4h8OMTVK8Hy5SBg05_kQFMC3yyZNawXvvOhC1fn4kZ9VGpSLqwhuZIj4edeVQhEBCDmcepdOuk6FPIDAn2wThaX/s320/Round%20corner%20toolpaths.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vectors Used</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The starting block for a rounded corner with a 1" internal radius and 1.75" external radius is 2.5" wide and 1.0625" thick. Adjust the starting block size to encompass different sizes of rounded corners. I recommend making the block 2" longer than the final part you need to keep the router/spindle chuck away from the rotary axis chuck and tailstock. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">An example Aspire CRV3D file for this specific project can be found on Vectric's forum here: <a href="https://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=41885&p=304483#p304483" target="_blank">Forum.Vectric.com</a></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The actual vector used for the final cut was created with the "Unwraps selected Object" tool you can only access while in a rotary job. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I helped students with rounded corners for their cabinet projects several times over my teaching career. This is one creative application for the rotary axis of the CNC. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Question, critiques, and comments are as always encouraged.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D <br /><br /></span></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-3160901627341986572023-06-22T13:50:00.000-06:002023-06-22T13:50:24.003-06:00A Little Pedestal Table<p><span style="font-size: medium;">This project was inspired by a thread posted on a woodworking forum about a 3-legged pedestal table. It was missing a top and had been discarded. It was found and restored with a new top by the woodworker. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The detailed center post of the table had considerable aesthetic appeal. The 3 legs that dovetailed into it showed a classic way to connect pedestal legs. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I've had a 3" x 3" block of oak wood mounted on the rotary axis of my CNC for the last 3 months or so. It was waiting to discover what it wanted to be. Becoming the center post of a new table seemed to agree with the wood block, so this is where this project started. The 4th axis toolpaths I cut using my CNC would result in this shape from that block:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEicXnXupkD5O9-6BA1A6D1Ga32esmJhDdZwrubfGdxwvkWw3oS11gLuzvQ5JOTugXDw-vV_hzMyNrNPW-IiIbQH3yzhEOk2udnDLwPp-q-7AMHBGBoF75mFC3QPB_ZEpgHBg66aZyguQrYwm0Od_67461SNpWZrNhkMULet3wASXoo2Qkq-qrKh1Q72Lg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="1114" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEicXnXupkD5O9-6BA1A6D1Ga32esmJhDdZwrubfGdxwvkWw3oS11gLuzvQ5JOTugXDw-vV_hzMyNrNPW-IiIbQH3yzhEOk2udnDLwPp-q-7AMHBGBoF75mFC3QPB_ZEpgHBg66aZyguQrYwm0Od_67461SNpWZrNhkMULet3wASXoo2Qkq-qrKh1Q72Lg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Render from Aspire</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Actual cut time took a few hours. The square block had to be reduce to a cylinder. <br /></span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKttHwpmlOVDqWeBCrbAO3stgm3rYCVLsEHNQxxAbyuivL1Cq0gDwqFVp-fDPXo6U87_zV_U5mMLZeh43QmHEgeydHYkfAskHhta9llVgpRIEQJelRqVnQBmPrAihAVNYRBlhqyPphcygmALbd2lvX3DEHaWqxY9QoQCcm4LMsJDS1PLHIMDP-8lfIdw/s989/From%20square%20to%20round.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="952" data-original-width="989" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKttHwpmlOVDqWeBCrbAO3stgm3rYCVLsEHNQxxAbyuivL1Cq0gDwqFVp-fDPXo6U87_zV_U5mMLZeh43QmHEgeydHYkfAskHhta9llVgpRIEQJelRqVnQBmPrAihAVNYRBlhqyPphcygmALbd2lvX3DEHaWqxY9QoQCcm4LMsJDS1PLHIMDP-8lfIdw/s320/From%20square%20to%20round.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">First reduce square into a cylinder.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">There is a gadget in Aspire that creates a toolpath specifically to remove the corners of square blocks to leave a cylinder. </span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEzEXhPbSit53Y4CgthD3_cQ37UjGHNaqDIh8TrECDufnN1--y9TQajOINMQch9BxMvBYwgsBtPFdhEGRkkr_iCurqxUJKo-Pq1jFVOulcXxYoK9dKIP9K7HhySx88Us3QDi2vX-jbqzOxftBJcy0DlGT9WnuJMjevzvV2rPMDDymXvITvA7YJSzTfkw/s1378/First%20into%20a%20cylinder.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="893" data-original-width="1378" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEzEXhPbSit53Y4CgthD3_cQ37UjGHNaqDIh8TrECDufnN1--y9TQajOINMQch9BxMvBYwgsBtPFdhEGRkkr_iCurqxUJKo-Pq1jFVOulcXxYoK9dKIP9K7HhySx88Us3QDi2vX-jbqzOxftBJcy0DlGT9WnuJMjevzvV2rPMDDymXvITvA7YJSzTfkw/s320/First%20into%20a%20cylinder.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">From a cylinder, then roughly shaped.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">A roughing pass was done to remove most of the waste area from the cylinder. </span><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAL3zSZ-vtsCrkTt-Offggz2AZAuo5ZcLTdmadjyJ4Ew2I7LhbIAc5CMrdNaU_tJPneUGup71aOLqCUsHKPYiU58X6Gel0MrsQaCRZMVBvM3BPWjHyxzSkQY0FLbCPSeVtzuA1N09FE9BHU5-V-sWhuo-0lbL1-IpsElRx7B7JnRDlMX-BjR9jTY2yg/s1080/Rough%20cut%20contour.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAL3zSZ-vtsCrkTt-Offggz2AZAuo5ZcLTdmadjyJ4Ew2I7LhbIAc5CMrdNaU_tJPneUGup71aOLqCUsHKPYiU58X6Gel0MrsQaCRZMVBvM3BPWjHyxzSkQY0FLbCPSeVtzuA1N09FE9BHU5-V-sWhuo-0lbL1-IpsElRx7B7JnRDlMX-BjR9jTY2yg/s320/Rough%20cut%20contour.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Rough cut contours</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOvcMAloZutrtFQphgWOl3AdG30dC2LvkMBDIhE3gm_3oij91XhcMq6FgB90lx10Crr2x_uT9pB36YrQbezXIKPkltsmrRdpgODeAlz6PqSEWq3HaR4L0DneVZdZvf9IxL8txhVUDl2-n_pMHwmDGv5q8hjVVtgPzCdlIECh4DUddp9qwHHTfxida41g/s956/Half%20done%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="956" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOvcMAloZutrtFQphgWOl3AdG30dC2LvkMBDIhE3gm_3oij91XhcMq6FgB90lx10Crr2x_uT9pB36YrQbezXIKPkltsmrRdpgODeAlz6PqSEWq3HaR4L0DneVZdZvf9IxL8txhVUDl2-n_pMHwmDGv5q8hjVVtgPzCdlIECh4DUddp9qwHHTfxida41g/s320/Half%20done%201.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">3/4 done</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div><span style="font-size: medium;">A final pass with a 1/8" diameter ball nosed bit works its way slowly down the cylinder to produce the final smooth shape. </span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ3ap9cccwb3pjsTHWFDh3i0uA-5IQXipmD0uX7O2P5k9llCeBWTRP9AblaKv1xleLkZpsk6o7euqEH13xUDqI5SI-Yc7WdrL3-b6TJgteKkj9FScWtxob2w0ViFI86hQXz20uJ-SxhQtghKGYhZOQbEZNI3J2lwS6qxq4Zy-kavLd4MMTxVwyb9Qmzg/s1080/CNC%20cut%20post%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="521" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ3ap9cccwb3pjsTHWFDh3i0uA-5IQXipmD0uX7O2P5k9llCeBWTRP9AblaKv1xleLkZpsk6o7euqEH13xUDqI5SI-Yc7WdrL3-b6TJgteKkj9FScWtxob2w0ViFI86hQXz20uJ-SxhQtghKGYhZOQbEZNI3J2lwS6qxq4Zy-kavLd4MMTxVwyb9Qmzg/s320/CNC%20cut%20post%201.jpg" width="154" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Final Shape</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">Flat areas on the bottom section will be where the feet join into the post. These areas of the bottom section are where dovetail slots were cut.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I flipped the post over end to end so the area where dovetail cuts were needed was at the top (right in the photo) and approachable by the spinning dovetail bit. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">First came pocket clearance cuts done with a 1/4" end mill to remove all the area except where the dovetail undercut would be. Less work for the dovetail bit to do. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN-mV5Lkm3WXQnaAKiwMvHK50XJjPr3rcHKlY3wCdDfNQ60ErhQvQ3mIhXaoalnObJEyolW0v1zkTo5q2sFNUYTTZozaQpb_sS_euon9cip3DwglbtXXkC14eS4G4JYXpx8ekSMd_5oU_5eM763APBU4FDDxEA4XR8Xp6fX_XdIoz9Umtkj-71TaGwEw/s1080/Set%20up%20for%20clearance%20cuts.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN-mV5Lkm3WXQnaAKiwMvHK50XJjPr3rcHKlY3wCdDfNQ60ErhQvQ3mIhXaoalnObJEyolW0v1zkTo5q2sFNUYTTZozaQpb_sS_euon9cip3DwglbtXXkC14eS4G4JYXpx8ekSMd_5oU_5eM763APBU4FDDxEA4XR8Xp6fX_XdIoz9Umtkj-71TaGwEw/s320/Set%20up%20for%20clearance%20cuts.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">1/4" end mill set for clearance cuts.</span></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The pocket cut was repeated around the post every 120 degrees. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUPwYhaILe03YPV2ddB9tZ6xZhOkVznaxxD6IoWNLUs9I2HrKqzZmsptadbFSH5WWezMAPSepvce1teHRbwECxORpsFhSKIE-cAu-J5chfXr1TetyZcci685B54Qv8TW_ZUFyzyuf4M-Ni7nktDOJ_Rk-YCQufT7WZelrG1oArvZl2jIP4B_NnocUpFg/s1080/Clearance%20pocket%20cut.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUPwYhaILe03YPV2ddB9tZ6xZhOkVznaxxD6IoWNLUs9I2HrKqzZmsptadbFSH5WWezMAPSepvce1teHRbwECxORpsFhSKIE-cAu-J5chfXr1TetyZcci685B54Qv8TW_ZUFyzyuf4M-Ni7nktDOJ_Rk-YCQufT7WZelrG1oArvZl2jIP4B_NnocUpFg/s320/Clearance%20pocket%20cut.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Clearance pockets done.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Next came a bit change to a dovetail bit. This one is 9/16" diameter and has 8 degree sloped sides. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik3gmy6vnXumoh0fPRzX5AOnXaiMmR14F8pyHOs-5wOgRL3VQ7aXlElBzf4xqmeGpHY_Ze6FS3AofskHXVKSmDwoVJ1aG8FCe7FI2a-9um7rbNFyrwqeVzhXGlfWmmn8vDubDLigLmNdVprtWDGt_64pQddBqbs1rlld1giZDobCUCfjw6xDyBtKzS2w/s1080/Setting%20up%20to%20cut%20dovetail%20undercut2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik3gmy6vnXumoh0fPRzX5AOnXaiMmR14F8pyHOs-5wOgRL3VQ7aXlElBzf4xqmeGpHY_Ze6FS3AofskHXVKSmDwoVJ1aG8FCe7FI2a-9um7rbNFyrwqeVzhXGlfWmmn8vDubDLigLmNdVprtWDGt_64pQddBqbs1rlld1giZDobCUCfjw6xDyBtKzS2w/s320/Setting%20up%20to%20cut%20dovetail%20undercut2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Setup for a dovetail pass</span>.</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The dovetail pass was repeated every 120 degrees around the post. Once done the post was removed from the rotary axis mount. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrDY_d-pPjvKwmxJ-zuaew-T4RFXYvh6A7a9MO42lTjJmGoUcrdc1juv_1ct1hXqF2wLkq_uDKBMgDspkyk__K50GM6nYA_lc6lOJfZ17phfLWHbKm7wLMeGstpjbAkaYRlgysxDk8QhsYUbvZ04atoT-ccwr3Ynnh18tKBXZ_R765aEpzpFDx0ll2cA/s1067/Dovetails%20cut2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="953" data-original-width="1067" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrDY_d-pPjvKwmxJ-zuaew-T4RFXYvh6A7a9MO42lTjJmGoUcrdc1juv_1ct1hXqF2wLkq_uDKBMgDspkyk__K50GM6nYA_lc6lOJfZ17phfLWHbKm7wLMeGstpjbAkaYRlgysxDk8QhsYUbvZ04atoT-ccwr3Ynnh18tKBXZ_R765aEpzpFDx0ll2cA/s320/Dovetails%20cut2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Dovetail cuts done.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">With the post done it was time for the legs. A few sketches of the table with legs were productive. Sketches pointed out that the wood needed to make the legs from needed to be found before the final shape of the legs could be determined. I had in my scrap bin a couple of oak stretchers left from an abandoned chair design I never finished. They were 3" wide, 1" thick, and 25 inches long. Unfortunately their edges had been rounded over. I planed them down to 7/8" thick, taking the same amount of wood off of each side. This left about 2.5" of width that was flat in the center of each stretcher. The leg design I came up with is a simple curve with a hooked foot. Three were cut from that 2.5" width of wood. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">A challenge with the legs was to cut the male dovetail end that would fit into the center post. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfhOD2WuddePaqc6RDSnLYu6J79r3-aV0WYTxsFTOYqFYyVzDa3GznmMRwrDqW8jf9Use7_vOU2HLDRNjPIzNekd0sWO3jB595LyezSoV1sxRvlhmHIfOVLg1WD_58MWt5jVNk03brTFAxU-DWt0FVnDkSyNZ9_2OM4iYxLAB1s3BJ3-qUN6hBuY29Ww/s1080/Jigged%20up%20for%20dovetail%20cut2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfhOD2WuddePaqc6RDSnLYu6J79r3-aV0WYTxsFTOYqFYyVzDa3GznmMRwrDqW8jf9Use7_vOU2HLDRNjPIzNekd0sWO3jB595LyezSoV1sxRvlhmHIfOVLg1WD_58MWt5jVNk03brTFAxU-DWt0FVnDkSyNZ9_2OM4iYxLAB1s3BJ3-qUN6hBuY29Ww/s320/Jigged%20up%20for%20dovetail%20cut2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Jigged up for the dovetail cut.</span></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I took care to clamp the first leg so the area for the dovetail was horizontal and sticking up where the router bit could reach it. I then added supports and stops around it so repeating the cut on the next two legs could use the same setup. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ8N7TiyMRTE_emFkhE_7IHX_M3bj3ROcdgfxRx-p8ACVz4j5vKpt7x2ocX6IarNpU8ns-ScpsqJGuXrENBMIW2l_cy3IUwvQC2Vqpz36_hVcLi_852dgEnCh_aGPMlthB9vCaCiRGChnb_2RRuamvJE15zuztJTIf81DT6qhg2VJAtII5g1MNALZoWA/s1080/Dovetail%20cut%20setup.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ8N7TiyMRTE_emFkhE_7IHX_M3bj3ROcdgfxRx-p8ACVz4j5vKpt7x2ocX6IarNpU8ns-ScpsqJGuXrENBMIW2l_cy3IUwvQC2Vqpz36_hVcLi_852dgEnCh_aGPMlthB9vCaCiRGChnb_2RRuamvJE15zuztJTIf81DT6qhg2VJAtII5g1MNALZoWA/s320/Dovetail%20cut%20setup.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Dovetail bit zeroed out on the leg top. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">To start the cut I needed to zero the dovetail bit against the left and front edges and the top of the leg. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxqYEXKnJmTmYRWUSwbaecjHgpdK9CJPFGWrKwsBDO6lRtqoUmCwlE22salJvUsqf1Zo6ZDcd5tedX_ey64W92FgfRM4y-XCM2QLxCBnznr61BIESJhAR2BW2U7rcJsbNGOSHf3Js9DEN3daKK9g_F0XqQXLRqzcsIe_XO1wkpbbyG8YqGWtCJMc1ogQ/s809/Dovetail%20cut%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="695" data-original-width="809" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxqYEXKnJmTmYRWUSwbaecjHgpdK9CJPFGWrKwsBDO6lRtqoUmCwlE22salJvUsqf1Zo6ZDcd5tedX_ey64W92FgfRM4y-XCM2QLxCBnznr61BIESJhAR2BW2U7rcJsbNGOSHf3Js9DEN3daKK9g_F0XqQXLRqzcsIe_XO1wkpbbyG8YqGWtCJMc1ogQ/s320/Dovetail%20cut%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Dovetail cut.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">First dovetail looked centered and correct. It was time to check if it fit in the post slots.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TGpuw2n1tSeKe13lrT7O5l3MQpgTGNg3QNRgr15jnKRY9_i8kEFAv-g6-_mf7g23WhTxX79x35JCLW4QxDU66ycqygv1a1Twn-A2SeXj2C6_Mhhdiavw9ieeowRGbHvooqWqBfRi4XMjkZYApMJ0wkV8jCjkyfL3XGd-nJkp5bvqOQOo4cvGi4Gjgw/s871/test%20fit%20dovetail.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="871" data-original-width="629" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TGpuw2n1tSeKe13lrT7O5l3MQpgTGNg3QNRgr15jnKRY9_i8kEFAv-g6-_mf7g23WhTxX79x35JCLW4QxDU66ycqygv1a1Twn-A2SeXj2C6_Mhhdiavw9ieeowRGbHvooqWqBfRi4XMjkZYApMJ0wkV8jCjkyfL3XGd-nJkp5bvqOQOo4cvGi4Gjgw/s320/test%20fit%20dovetail.jpg" width="231" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Fit is good. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The dovetail slot is tapered to match the tapered shape of this leg end. The leg slips in easily and snugs up tight. With a good fit all I needed to do was repeat the cut on two more legs. With all three cut I could stand up the table base for aesthetic evaluation and detail contemplation. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfBgsoXMJZonZk-_bmAw4Dr3jd5GPG_PQnUpRYYrgpDdcayncSgPvgJTU8fVjrjjzCRji6xAv8uJDIf6gNqTDK8qHepnkP1jUaD5-55yXoEXk_WZCJY72C2ojI2FaegVePliQzWOOsGYheCabiaw_75lJ1gJyrS4p1fguSdZpTkUWp0aezQfJ9QhvYpA/s1356/legs%20on%204.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1356" data-original-width="695" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfBgsoXMJZonZk-_bmAw4Dr3jd5GPG_PQnUpRYYrgpDdcayncSgPvgJTU8fVjrjjzCRji6xAv8uJDIf6gNqTDK8qHepnkP1jUaD5-55yXoEXk_WZCJY72C2ojI2FaegVePliQzWOOsGYheCabiaw_75lJ1gJyrS4p1fguSdZpTkUWp0aezQfJ9QhvYpA/s320/legs%20on%204.jpg" width="164" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Three legs fit. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The top was yet to come. I spent a few days contemplating the top. Final shape. Edge detail? Inlays maybe? How the top ends up influences the final details I add to the legs.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Often it takes building an initial design idea to reveal the reality of it compared to renderings on a PC. That is true for this table. It is a prototype. A design in progress. The center post was the inspiration for making a table. Initially the "fancy" post seemed to beg for a fancy top to hold up. Eventually I realize I was wrong. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">It needed a simple top. Just a nice circle with some subtle detail and curve. My goal was to bring focus to the post. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTjQHy3AGhVCkGRF32IqbsoHrAi1qXae5Xjwh1ify56nSYOiTvBn7WhpsBwihCqjfQPcsy_e4WJkxbGvJbBdyy5umtf7me-03pl6vWALkboAjZMEpeMHYwMtXpWBGTTC4Jb6bWa9Z8KH_K9DSHeUBEqVym5y-Q9oDUcYw5kd67sEVuAea6Hx-HcLTdGw/s1240/round%20top%20table%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1240" data-original-width="972" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTjQHy3AGhVCkGRF32IqbsoHrAi1qXae5Xjwh1ify56nSYOiTvBn7WhpsBwihCqjfQPcsy_e4WJkxbGvJbBdyy5umtf7me-03pl6vWALkboAjZMEpeMHYwMtXpWBGTTC4Jb6bWa9Z8KH_K9DSHeUBEqVym5y-Q9oDUcYw5kd67sEVuAea6Hx-HcLTdGw/s320/round%20top%20table%201.jpg" width="251" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Simple round top.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">I made this round top to enforce detail continuity. The legs now stand out as the last parts with minimized relationship to the post. Below is some iterative playtime with the leg design.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">First idea was to taper the leg from top to bottom. Remove some of the visual mass. </span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAsSENWJ1OifmgB2pSMlulGJMMjPidFByGDAKyPpaozUn6SumrH_55RtmgbSMOHzzchHGZDw152fl2-Kdr250mDbq4qaxy6QGkbrGZMUKyzozvq0FsupDOfoWwz17VgTiFJoQs_3i7Kh1efLxvF54QQ8VMWhiuVc4-N99PQykhRJcUIgIAUIWkRHHoIA/s1114/tapered%20leg%20not.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="1114" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAsSENWJ1OifmgB2pSMlulGJMMjPidFByGDAKyPpaozUn6SumrH_55RtmgbSMOHzzchHGZDw152fl2-Kdr250mDbq4qaxy6QGkbrGZMUKyzozvq0FsupDOfoWwz17VgTiFJoQs_3i7Kh1efLxvF54QQ8VMWhiuVc4-N99PQykhRJcUIgIAUIWkRHHoIA/s320/tapered%20leg%20not.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">The round top has a subtle elliptical curve on the bottom, and to relate the leg an elliptical taper could be applied. Perhaps too subtle.</span><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /> </span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcsliNEeB5C3EM_dreD5SlGNExERjBIM07enZMrZGOIhkgmLPG21kIeQUv8mmbQnD0ZQzJl5m7mleRnkQfTWBxou7B7TIE4byMDnvWCmEcZanoHf01J2-USG3zbUz39p_ysHNhCaymLEWxwgu_RGrhRo_aPAstB3mCIo-JmsjVKVrZk_MSK8e9qGnp3g/s1114/ellitical%20leg%20shape.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="1114" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcsliNEeB5C3EM_dreD5SlGNExERjBIM07enZMrZGOIhkgmLPG21kIeQUv8mmbQnD0ZQzJl5m7mleRnkQfTWBxou7B7TIE4byMDnvWCmEcZanoHf01J2-USG3zbUz39p_ysHNhCaymLEWxwgu_RGrhRo_aPAstB3mCIo-JmsjVKVrZk_MSK8e9qGnp3g/s320/ellitical%20leg%20shape.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">A completely new leg profile was tried. A section of an ellipse.</span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWn74F_Ml1U9Q6mW1TR24ocOnvPMSOsnVE_Max5neU5LCVizHHvxtjfvJhEYdx_UUVtfsBI8WI8K7Z1Xr5UDCID4kA6ffGsVxdRn5O6m_WJPca3iPNap8SsgxxPXM3LOTZ0Jn8hOe-YZmhnARFOi6D6bqGJ6AgyiPWPtorHNCpUKdAUEWaDtxVSuP-Q/s1114/Ellipse%20leg%20version.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="1114" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWn74F_Ml1U9Q6mW1TR24ocOnvPMSOsnVE_Max5neU5LCVizHHvxtjfvJhEYdx_UUVtfsBI8WI8K7Z1Xr5UDCID4kA6ffGsVxdRn5O6m_WJPca3iPNap8SsgxxPXM3LOTZ0Jn8hOe-YZmhnARFOi6D6bqGJ6AgyiPWPtorHNCpUKdAUEWaDtxVSuP-Q/s320/Ellipse%20leg%20version.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: medium;">Redirecting the groove to better define the foot. I may have to make at least one to evaluate how well it adds to the aesthetic composition of the pedestal table. </span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNaniPqABptLv59XvRnsjbx_KT35RdHz_V2dHd46tP-0Qw-M_C6PU1mxtVCJoJhLlwYqzxVgLsfixpTfMJh1d4Dt-P9NmMihmRLyC5LqLtWFLJHwleHQWUoknDW9-tFwJSj3Vr89FjRCh-MKClg3nXR9_F0qusBMmX2OiFn3s4gjXRp6fO6B3gXNaWSw/s1114/Leg%20variation.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="1114" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNaniPqABptLv59XvRnsjbx_KT35RdHz_V2dHd46tP-0Qw-M_C6PU1mxtVCJoJhLlwYqzxVgLsfixpTfMJh1d4Dt-P9NmMihmRLyC5LqLtWFLJHwleHQWUoknDW9-tFwJSj3Vr89FjRCh-MKClg3nXR9_F0qusBMmX2OiFn3s4gjXRp6fO6B3gXNaWSw/s320/Leg%20variation.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">The groove on the side of the legs could continue from leg to leg around the section of the post where the legs attach. Linking the legs specifically to the post. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigB-y0ndAHqDgonyeEKmAF3Y0tkHC9MPjrpKaWCGl1WZIoTONsxwbWt5Swkrk1XlyG08YqDedVnrbwXk0KqoxrmqLIjtnhRda76E7mgaSI0NqlDU0URBgcCxDlgI2ooGNJxClxOI79ZQwwMSXiKe539388qATqSGrw-HEtNAfaTwJBpWgc8viY9Au9kg/s1114/leg%20connect%20detail.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="1114" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigB-y0ndAHqDgonyeEKmAF3Y0tkHC9MPjrpKaWCGl1WZIoTONsxwbWt5Swkrk1XlyG08YqDedVnrbwXk0KqoxrmqLIjtnhRda76E7mgaSI0NqlDU0URBgcCxDlgI2ooGNJxClxOI79ZQwwMSXiKe539388qATqSGrw-HEtNAfaTwJBpWgc8viY9Au9kg/s320/leg%20connect%20detail.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Perimeter groove to continue grooves on legs around the post.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Actual making of that last leg design would present a challenge. It has to be cut from both sides, and the only area around the shape that isn't cut is the back of the dovetail section. I would need to divide the toolpaths into two sessions, to allow at least two clamps to hold it down. Cut one side of the edges, then move the clamp to that side before cutting the other side. Flip the board over and repeat. Extra effort for a leg that may not be the right leg for this table. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I used a 3/16" radius round-over bit to soften the round top edge and also the edges of the original legs. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">My initial instincts to focus on the post and de-focus on the legs and top did the job. </span><span style="font-size: medium;"> I've concluded it is time to wrap this project up. The initial legs will do. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzr84fHhTVqLzAObfaNvakI3lR_jT5qfZLU0JtaFXvs9e2WEXmuoME9uK-6bxmNIoWJBwgIkGE63YqPUKCPhKgMIY-PCvrCnMv44RQnTdnfw5Nhp3MQY9wS_mzD0hBdD0MlIIL99RFUrakLJtiQknDYN3FjF8FTBBUuLajp3sK4KrHkYChkmeA2_tATA/s967/Final%20leg%20and%20top4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="967" data-original-width="763" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzr84fHhTVqLzAObfaNvakI3lR_jT5qfZLU0JtaFXvs9e2WEXmuoME9uK-6bxmNIoWJBwgIkGE63YqPUKCPhKgMIY-PCvrCnMv44RQnTdnfw5Nhp3MQY9wS_mzD0hBdD0MlIIL99RFUrakLJtiQknDYN3FjF8FTBBUuLajp3sK4KrHkYChkmeA2_tATA/s320/Final%20leg%20and%20top4.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Final less finish</span>.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Some cherry stain on the red oak, followed with a clear finish will match the color of this table to other furniture projects I have in my house. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Feel free to comment, criticize, or post any questions you may have. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D <br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><br /></span><p></p></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0Manhattan, KS 66503, USA39.2326802 -96.685198210.922446363821152 -131.8414482 67.542914036178843 -61.5289482tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-60854064107923875662023-05-10T13:40:00.000-06:002023-05-10T13:40:37.755-06:00Two Original 3-Way Corner Joints.<p><span style="font-size: medium;">I've seen several versions of 3-way corner joints done in wood by assorted YouTube and woodworker web sites. Other than a double miter cut on all three pieces most require unique cuts on some or all three of the connecting boards. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I've already come up with one version that can be CNC cut the same on all three pieces, but it required a center block that each piece connected into to complete the assembly. That 4th part cube was more challenging to make than the corner joint cuts were. </span></p><p><span style="color: #fff2cc; font-size: medium;"><span face="Roboto, RobotoDraft, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #134f5c;">https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2016/11/original-cnc-cut-3-way-interlocking.html</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">This post is my pursuit for unique looking joints that can be cut using a CNC. All three joining pieces must have the same shape done by the same toolpath cuts. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">One potential for a good looking solution is that the details in it may inspire similar details in the rest of the project these corners are used for. A new style perhaps.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The outer corner presents the most significant challenge. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Pinwheeling around the outer corner each joint line will end up at the inner corners of the connection. This line doesn't need to be direct from outer to inner corner. A curving line or bumpy line or zig-zag line should also work so long as each side of the line can be cut with the cylindrical or conical bits used by the CNC. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">One example I've made has concave/convex curves on each face as shown here: </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVUlAs3ROch57G8xljb4Yhx6KpcL29Z7rJW2zSSjed1eVdxJpWMK0IUEdBnzp7QF0_lFUlRPiMYvykdueMGSGpTgcH8x3mPPGfvT2kt9zDgKp-1XyIA5ikgp0XLMxzIBR8APDPyCM8_LpwE0GX_pgfn4a8BXReKx61siFOfKIwzXM_rZsrYoxJLAaymw/s852/curved%203-way%20corner%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="757" data-original-width="852" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVUlAs3ROch57G8xljb4Yhx6KpcL29Z7rJW2zSSjed1eVdxJpWMK0IUEdBnzp7QF0_lFUlRPiMYvykdueMGSGpTgcH8x3mPPGfvT2kt9zDgKp-1XyIA5ikgp0XLMxzIBR8APDPyCM8_LpwE0GX_pgfn4a8BXReKx61siFOfKIwzXM_rZsrYoxJLAaymw/s320/curved%203-way%20corner%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />The only flaw in this design is that it leaves a small hidden 3-sided void in the center core. The curves might encourage some curves in the design the joint was used for. Perhaps a slight curved taper from the inside corner down to the foot. One face of the leg might have a convex taper while the other face might have a concave taper. There could even be a shallow arc or bow on the underside of the top rails from leg to leg. If the table is rectangular then the long sides might have a slight convex bow while the short sides could a slight concave arc. </span><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGhcdAz8qYz-udeyqrBbPJMcsHvEGBf9cHMuCxwoBv9QhSo9UTamSMA_y2sHyRulL3hOvyrggElZrWmMI8F-z5A8igvGvsMyrSRSw7temY650nXO6OL3odgTFEhRBnIwbPOZL1Z-ta2_6j8Xk0jRlPNr1BgPOvWYTS-_uvQJU9w6-SDwHtkgs-k7bpWw/s1114/Stepped%203-way%20miter%20corner.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="1114" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGhcdAz8qYz-udeyqrBbPJMcsHvEGBf9cHMuCxwoBv9QhSo9UTamSMA_y2sHyRulL3hOvyrggElZrWmMI8F-z5A8igvGvsMyrSRSw7temY650nXO6OL3odgTFEhRBnIwbPOZL1Z-ta2_6j8Xk0jRlPNr1BgPOvWYTS-_uvQJU9w6-SDwHtkgs-k7bpWw/s320/Stepped%203-way%20miter%20corner.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Stepped 3-way Miter</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Another example is this stepped miter corner joint. Each piece can be cut with a CNC using the same toolpaths, Only a little bit of chisel work is needed to take care of two rounded over edges that couldn't be reached by a spinning router bit without messing up another detail of the joint. See the image above. Each piece ends up with 2 and 2/3 of the 8 cubed volume, leaving the entire volume perfectly filled when assembled. Cut out and cleaned up, then glued together it is easy to clamp. The flat steps on each piece keep the parts from sliding against each other when clamped down. The stepped joint might encourage a stepped detail to the furniture piece they could be used for. </span></div></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipo_gG238GQtOpXNyXl49NmGLg-gryg2aXi20dO_UqdMtgfLyBHXUlUvsAyXZMVWXrSUCOj6TqtRQ2ePxK4MJ2fdSaDVxw2gZGlbX3BxkRZQQHKUrBuU2ODlY6Wq11Eqy6ioRmoOmXnAqaNDGtr9RkuNHEBeU70SyUtkuPsg6x7CfoGWby9fxo_OHGkg/s901/stepped%203-way%20miter%20corner%204.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="752" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipo_gG238GQtOpXNyXl49NmGLg-gryg2aXi20dO_UqdMtgfLyBHXUlUvsAyXZMVWXrSUCOj6TqtRQ2ePxK4MJ2fdSaDVxw2gZGlbX3BxkRZQQHKUrBuU2ODlY6Wq11Eqy6ioRmoOmXnAqaNDGtr9RkuNHEBeU70SyUtkuPsg6x7CfoGWby9fxo_OHGkg/s320/stepped%203-way%20miter%20corner%204.jpg" width="267" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Stepped 3-way Miter in Pine</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">This sample shows a little tear out left by the pocket toolpaths. It was easy to clamp up. I like the contrast between side grain and face grain on each side, helping the joint line stand out. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I've got a few more sketched ideas for a corner joint. I'll need to find some more scraps to see if they'll work and show how well they glue up and actually look. A good bit of mental exercise this pursuit has been. Making the toolpaths for the stepped miter corner was the most challenging part. Trying to visualize how the curved version would work before actually making it was a bit beyond me. I didn't foresee the hidden void left in the core. This proves how valuable it is to make sample prototypes. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Comments and Questions are encouraged and welcomed. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D </span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-50631203769173756752023-05-09T18:35:00.002-06:002023-05-09T18:35:53.848-06:00 Cam Lever Upgrade for my Wen Benchtop Drill Press<span style="font-size: medium;">Every drill press I've encountered in my life has had the same knurled lever handle that you unscrew to release the table or screw in to lock the table to the post. Like this one:</span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5EUV826NjMY3sU-4Yt4s98wnxjQdiNlG5IlIF844QjWjvaMw_crVUKjrN-1YiboLgefP2slhNvBKc9MVLlzA-qlAo3aTsxDjsTfKkm2LuCrKr_xZUuAuoTL92JsUMdxjh2octndfDbnKQ4KAqAW-kzOFLBT6Tzw21J9smFhG1RCb3Kaeq9-_UR91M6w/s768/Drill%20press%20shaft%20handle.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="768" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5EUV826NjMY3sU-4Yt4s98wnxjQdiNlG5IlIF844QjWjvaMw_crVUKjrN-1YiboLgefP2slhNvBKc9MVLlzA-qlAo3aTsxDjsTfKkm2LuCrKr_xZUuAuoTL92JsUMdxjh2octndfDbnKQ4KAqAW-kzOFLBT6Tzw21J9smFhG1RCb3Kaeq9-_UR91M6w/s320/Drill%20press%20shaft%20handle.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">While two or three spins of that handle will do the job, there is a better solution out there that takes much less effort to loosen and tighten the table to the post with. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I've already updated several of my jigs and fences to use cam levers rather then twist knobs.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffe599; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2022/06/cam-levers-vs-twist-knobs.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #ffe599;">Cam Levers</span></a></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I did a quick search on Amazon for an M10 Cam Lever and found this one: </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013IA28DK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" target="_blank"><span style="color: #ffe599;">M10 Cam Lever at Amazon.com</span></a> </span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">It took a week to arrive, but only a couple minutes to install on my drill press. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjySs155GjJeQs4UHg34hzTrQ1ZebmLrk35HqKtJG1VirX0g17xHGaUow8-0pgB9pqcAQhyvMA5BSKjmsdywUH30IbISfxwOgADp98cb44Z9mJyBQmlTJpUKCzCwnjvI6dVWdDnV_dc74nA9741JQWsJMPXHtUMonR3Z-MEsCOtBuu1_eA9EK_jm7BWSQ/s679/Drill%20press%20shaft%20cam%20lever2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="679" data-original-width="476" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjySs155GjJeQs4UHg34hzTrQ1ZebmLrk35HqKtJG1VirX0g17xHGaUow8-0pgB9pqcAQhyvMA5BSKjmsdywUH30IbISfxwOgADp98cb44Z9mJyBQmlTJpUKCzCwnjvI6dVWdDnV_dc74nA9741JQWsJMPXHtUMonR3Z-MEsCOtBuu1_eA9EK_jm7BWSQ/s320/Drill%20press%20shaft%20cam%20lever2.jpg" width="224" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">M10 Cam Lever</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">The powder coated lever is comfortable to handle. Lift it up to loosen the table. Put it down to tighten as shown in the photo. There is close to 1/8" of movement of the post collar gap to go from tight to loose with a simple lift of the cam lever. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">While I'm sure this cam lever was more expensive than the knurled handle that came with the drill, I'd love to see new drill presses come with cam levers. A far easier to use option. My Nova Voyager Drill Press was expensive enough that I'm sure such a simple upgrade could have been worked into the price. A Cam Lever for my Nova is next on my list. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D<br /><br /></span></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-14267036149134848462023-03-21T01:19:00.000-06:002023-03-21T01:19:23.293-06:00My TaigTool CNC Milling Machine. A new tool and new control software to learn.<p><span style="font-size: medium;">When I was a college student I had access to a manual milling machine to cut and shape metal parts with. My first design job after college was for a company that made residential furniture from metal and glass and occasionally plastic. I learned several things most don't know about what can be done with metal while working there. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">On February 24th, 2023 I received a mini CNC controlled milling machine that I had ordered. A tool to permit me to stretch my experience using a CNC to cut wood and plastics toward CNC cutting metals. A tool to explore with to scratch my design curiosity. A tool I can use to make more complex parts with metal than I could with that manual milling machine. </span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiALiS7fbO9k9mz1QGreIHS1zdhFQguZ1POM-ujXivqPP6bCGDo7VXw1McdDSwQug1QlVTozBxK4QrO7PVzIPcYgfVHI1m8Q1-83xEbxJUph47tlBMgMCGDuhvsjvxNfSB4qzE88CbdhSyE2FaaXgigpBqnHx1KG2kLVoptsfQzu5ir4rkS6LJrblQWgQ/s1080/Shield%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiALiS7fbO9k9mz1QGreIHS1zdhFQguZ1POM-ujXivqPP6bCGDo7VXw1McdDSwQug1QlVTozBxK4QrO7PVzIPcYgfVHI1m8Q1-83xEbxJUph47tlBMgMCGDuhvsjvxNfSB4qzE88CbdhSyE2FaaXgigpBqnHx1KG2kLVoptsfQzu5ir4rkS6LJrblQWgQ/s320/Shield%202.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">CNC Mini Milling Machine</span> </td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Some assembly was required. Bought from TaigTools.com, this mini milling machine arrived in three separate boxes. The stepper motors needed to be mounted to each of three axes. The motor and spindle had to be mounted to the Z axis post. The Z axis post had to be mounted to the X/Y table. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Once assembled a new adventure began. To run the CNC it came with Mach3 controller software. I was able to install it and run the software, but couldn't get it to communicate with the CNC.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The refurbished PC I bought to run the CNC came with a fresh install of Windows 10 Pro, 64 bit version. As the 64 bit operating system doesn't support parallel ports Mach3 had no communication path to the CNC controller plugged into a parallel port I bought for that PC. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">It took more than a week, but eventually I received the UC100 USB to Parallel adapter that was recommended by the CNC company. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Initially the adapter also failed to communicate with the CNC controller. It took some research to find out why the new adapter still wouldn't. A web clue suggested the PC needed .NET framework for everything to work. The PC I bought to run the CNC mill apparently didn't have that installed. Once I had it installed Mach3 did recognize the USB adapter and prompted me to select it from a list of other options. Once I selected it and turned on the CNC controller box I found that I finally did have control of the CNC mill. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">So now begins a new adventure for my retired soul. First task was to add the ability to have the spindle turn on when the job starts and off when it ends. An AC/DC control relay from <a href="http://IOTRELAY.COM"><span style="color: #ffe599;">IOTRELAY.COM</span></a> along with an 8-pin plug and some 2-lead coated wire did the job. </span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDI61Mdyo-osE88i-shWoGboZnZQof6cewBw3FUF98sJXCJBB3r-MzDnREmt7kzZ2lwBp4uaQO5kfNXII9RNfQ4I011pO7V_Q4-VyDXkwvxYpjFCptAq-IJKbxL4hSWlXouemiK5Z35sH-gsFGcC4WAkditBAKs4BCVRwp0Rwaddjh_JjhcW98o67Iyg/s651/Spindle%20Relay2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="651" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDI61Mdyo-osE88i-shWoGboZnZQof6cewBw3FUF98sJXCJBB3r-MzDnREmt7kzZ2lwBp4uaQO5kfNXII9RNfQ4I011pO7V_Q4-VyDXkwvxYpjFCptAq-IJKbxL4hSWlXouemiK5Z35sH-gsFGcC4WAkditBAKs4BCVRwp0Rwaddjh_JjhcW98o67Iyg/s320/Spindle%20Relay2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Spindle Relay</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">My next task was wiring up an emergency stop button to the CNC controller. Mounting the stop button where it would be quick to hit was important. I didn't want to make holes in the bench top so a way to clamp it to the edge of the bench was needed. </span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9zjSEpxqCdLIQXmcMNOYWd9VdUCermgT9PQnSRLPkvPiNADwlE3sbML6AC6H9HW-xDyKmdIlUEzO_yb_-YOxiw5NSgmJt-H2wRg1JM1tLXEcKF8lY3oEELnMbJQlQqSw3hlaLvlUgHOh2zwt8anO_PeWRiGWdLdN85xMMb3VaJEVdS5mSgUq5KS2adg/s1080/E-Stop%20mount%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9zjSEpxqCdLIQXmcMNOYWd9VdUCermgT9PQnSRLPkvPiNADwlE3sbML6AC6H9HW-xDyKmdIlUEzO_yb_-YOxiw5NSgmJt-H2wRg1JM1tLXEcKF8lY3oEELnMbJQlQqSw3hlaLvlUgHOh2zwt8anO_PeWRiGWdLdN85xMMb3VaJEVdS5mSgUq5KS2adg/s320/E-Stop%20mount%202.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Emergency Stop Button</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">The injection molded ends on the switch body had an angle on them and didn't sit flat on the table top. I used my Probotix CNC to cut a mounting plate. It allowed for the angled ends and had a slot for the clamp I used to hold it to the bench top with.</span><div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Why an emergency stop button? There have been several moments in the past when what was happening on my Probotix CNC took an unexpected turn. When a cut went awry having a button in reach to slap and stop the router and the movement of the CNC was extremely important. As I get used to using this CNC milling machine I can loosen the clamp and move this E-Stop button to wherever it will be easiest to reach. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The next update I am considering is to add limit switches the CNC mill. This should keep the machine from bumping into end stops during a cut which usually ruins the part being cut. That tale I'll reserve for another day. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Questions and comments are welcome and appreciated.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4D</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></p></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454434430159407525.post-79725552125124149652023-03-13T16:00:00.002-06:002023-03-21T11:38:14.360-06:00A Tool Stand for my Taigtool CNC Mini Milling Machine<p><span style="font-size: medium;">I've got a new benchtop tool on order and it needs a stand to rest on. There will be associated accessories for this tool so a drawer to keep them in will be useful. The top of the bench has been made and was made from a 25" x 48" x 1.5"thick butcherblock panel purchased from my local Menards. See here how I made the rectangular panel into a square panel: <a href="https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/454434430159407525/7972555212512414965#" target="_blank"><span style="color: #ffe599;">Rectangle to Square</span></a></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>To access the tool without having to bend over the bench will be 38" tall. The legs will be similar to those I made for the prototype bench you can see here: </span><a href="https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2022/07/25-x-48-hobby-workbench-design.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #ffe599;">Hobby Bench</span></a></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Made from 4x4 (3.5" x 3.5") Cedar legs and 12mm x 5.75" plywood stretchers the flared stance should be sturdy and steady when the machine is in motion. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO_fd0tugG9rMa7yeryKdX3KtZCs2E8UqLAw9flVF0KB39ErjZvhqoZT0OJ40dpGmfrRKMKV6PqD9hu58c55QsizkMkfv50GJNPtvlohGg0Z_5hZrmtNUKxwaTsN008losa5o448xUKGbe8x7stQNIYVs9smNkUGHvRRxEQCxHGIRMmg--VypDzJidyA/s1080/Tool%20stand%20dry%20assembled1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO_fd0tugG9rMa7yeryKdX3KtZCs2E8UqLAw9flVF0KB39ErjZvhqoZT0OJ40dpGmfrRKMKV6PqD9hu58c55QsizkMkfv50GJNPtvlohGg0Z_5hZrmtNUKxwaTsN008losa5o448xUKGbe8x7stQNIYVs9smNkUGHvRRxEQCxHGIRMmg--VypDzJidyA/s320/Tool%20stand%20dry%20assembled1.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">8 degree legs</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The drawer will use 24" long soft closing full extension drawer slides. The stand may eventually have casters. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I found 6' long 4x4 cedar posts at my local Menards store. Fortunately six feet of material is the longest I can fit in my small car. Six feet of 4x4 is enough for 2 legs. I made all 4 legs with very little waste from two 6' long posts. My Bosch Glide compound miter saw was used to cut the top and bottom compound angle on all 4 legs. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The tenons on the end of the 12mm thick plywood stretchers were cut on my CNC. They were clamped vertically in the X plane and held at 8 degrees relative to the Y direction. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Mortises on two sides of each leg were also cut with the legs on my CNC. They are at an angle to end up vertical in relationship to the angled legs. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vOdO6UEM6CnHFUTzmDK-7n3s9A0ADHKiOaQMmmoKxz_tUoMCN28y6OO1Hz911kD7CtZAd6K-9Her1yuxB_4R9YNXjjEleE2AwkVdSy13xQ4yKAugV--fQS4RKxQO-3JNca7Kn7eZH9N8oMmtNeOXv6GHZi2EdKZ7GKT69a2ppgcqVb7Eoe_9CuW97w/s1080/Leg%20on%20CNC.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vOdO6UEM6CnHFUTzmDK-7n3s9A0ADHKiOaQMmmoKxz_tUoMCN28y6OO1Hz911kD7CtZAd6K-9Her1yuxB_4R9YNXjjEleE2AwkVdSy13xQ4yKAugV--fQS4RKxQO-3JNca7Kn7eZH9N8oMmtNeOXv6GHZi2EdKZ7GKT69a2ppgcqVb7Eoe_9CuW97w/s320/Leg%20on%20CNC.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Mortises at 8 degrees</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">To make the drawer side rails I split a pine board in half and ran both halves though the drum sander until the bandsaw marks were gone. I cut the two pieces in half lengthwise, then glued each half side by side to make two wider boards I can use. A new resaw blade on my bandsaw took awhile to install and set up, but did a nice job of splitting the pine board in half. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">For the two drawer sides I found two 6' long pine 1x3s that would do. I cut them in half lengthwise, then joined one edge on each piece before gluing 2 together x 2 stretchers. With the glue dry I scraped off any beads of glue, then took all 3 stretcher boards out to my drum sander to clean them all up. They ended up 3/4" thick. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Next came finalizing the design drawings and verifying the dimensions that all the parts needed to be. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Drawer rails were made, including the tenons on the back angled end. Mortises for those tenons were cut on the top inside edge of the two rear legs. A pocket for the rails has been cut on the side of the two front legs. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Legs will have their outer corner rounded over by a 1" radius round over bit. The outer two faces of each legs have been cleaned up and made square to each other on my small jointer. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_0G2FVkA0jIvvZhjmo-9adfrEMrlq5Pjpjg2Rpyyo-m9KQiNcb6fyt5IJpfKyiq0qjRa36hl50Dy0OGfVIm8a7Co0hgMgz9bLVquKJ2q5PKmxbVEsEzq3_Udn66T_M8AodmgPFQoQwUJq3OoTteK5D3S25jxZauXHx8VO4LZXIjUrKI7Wvnbs_4OMIg/s718/Router%20table%20fence.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="609" data-original-width="718" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_0G2FVkA0jIvvZhjmo-9adfrEMrlq5Pjpjg2Rpyyo-m9KQiNcb6fyt5IJpfKyiq0qjRa36hl50Dy0OGfVIm8a7Co0hgMgz9bLVquKJ2q5PKmxbVEsEzq3_Udn66T_M8AodmgPFQoQwUJq3OoTteK5D3S25jxZauXHx8VO4LZXIjUrKI7Wvnbs_4OMIg/s320/Router%20table%20fence.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Fence for 1" Radius Roundover Cutter</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">I designed and made a fence for my router table that would work with my 1" radius roundover bit. I then took all four legs of the base out to my garage shop and ran their outside corner through that 1" radius roundover cutter. The outside corner 1" radius is to match the 1" radius corners of my table top. Some detail continuity to ensure the base leaves no question that it belongs to the table top. After that all legs were sanded to clean up their sides, and a 1/4" radius roundover was cut on the two inner external corners. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">For the drawer I've decided to use finger joints on the corners. I've already CNC cut the profile for the drawer slides on the two sides of the drawer. I cut the finger joints on the 4 corners of the drawer box. I used a 12mm router bit to simplify making a slot in the box sides for the 12mm plywood bottom. While I could make a 12mm wide slot with two passes of a 1/4" bit, it simplified the job by having a 12mm bit for that task. Most 1/2" plywood sold these days is actually 12mm thick. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><span style="font-size: medium;">Drawer assembly started with one end (two corners) being glued up. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxQW604A_a1IA53ptLwXklf8djU3dLq48etHC3UDjP_e3_Dvc-HMSBKAIdfj3oxeoDhPFOW2FTcMdzfF_mnjUARBQMrB_AB3Asznrb5QWKf0NcpeKJ0Y41__4XjJ-V02KhBxe6izkX5yv-o5l0pIByHZ1VagcZdBNqVZWYGewVwT2dV0qdwkwg2VI4nQ/s922/Drawer%20glue%20up1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="557" data-original-width="922" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxQW604A_a1IA53ptLwXklf8djU3dLq48etHC3UDjP_e3_Dvc-HMSBKAIdfj3oxeoDhPFOW2FTcMdzfF_mnjUARBQMrB_AB3Asznrb5QWKf0NcpeKJ0Y41__4XjJ-V02KhBxe6izkX5yv-o5l0pIByHZ1VagcZdBNqVZWYGewVwT2dV0qdwkwg2VI4nQ/s320/Drawer%20glue%20up1.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">24 inch deep drawer.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">After the glue was dry on the first end, the other two corners were glued up. This drawer will slide between two rails that were glued to the base.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBXlCCR3erzFxfTSqkNJx24DVOsRnNZ5uJnDf3fmu-IGXBD567UsjqqdxJXfon0G9OrS6Gdfg-GXQ1qfNC2fu5YlI2LaAppVDkJMVyvxUGPcR-FCkfhkzREAuerVswS9ReFw5oqwGFWxzu4znXw9ptHac3Lh07ZdW_hFV-LMiwTdiTxqVb03x-dOET8g/s889/Drawer%20rails2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="657" data-original-width="889" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBXlCCR3erzFxfTSqkNJx24DVOsRnNZ5uJnDf3fmu-IGXBD567UsjqqdxJXfon0G9OrS6Gdfg-GXQ1qfNC2fu5YlI2LaAppVDkJMVyvxUGPcR-FCkfhkzREAuerVswS9ReFw5oqwGFWxzu4znXw9ptHac3Lh07ZdW_hFV-LMiwTdiTxqVb03x-dOET8g/s320/Drawer%20rails2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">These rails will hold the drawer slides for the drawer.</span> </td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The articulating "feet" for my parallel clamps helped clamp these parts efficiently. </span><p></p></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Finger joints on the drawer box needed to be flush trimmed to the side contour. A 1/4" spiral flush trim bit in my hand held Milwaukee router took care of that. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_u_2YKUz-TsQ3Fpp7hgp1tJUwbM1vx1FcMUKxtVhty9eXuxug2RjCMdlEMufjOycjhzYJd-iakdwE6O3KVckRwP2hmsR7VVeCGKOamZRUbp__Ql9yFzOhsOWPXHFvasTAZX0tsOWEZ2gcrFaw4WDyzuRh6nfyHODDQOdWeOw16aW-zaOJxEAy7W4Fhg/s925/finsger%20jointed%20corners2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="925" data-original-width="540" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_u_2YKUz-TsQ3Fpp7hgp1tJUwbM1vx1FcMUKxtVhty9eXuxug2RjCMdlEMufjOycjhzYJd-iakdwE6O3KVckRwP2hmsR7VVeCGKOamZRUbp__Ql9yFzOhsOWPXHFvasTAZX0tsOWEZ2gcrFaw4WDyzuRh6nfyHODDQOdWeOw16aW-zaOJxEAy7W4Fhg/s320/finsger%20jointed%20corners2.jpg" width="187" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Finger jointed corners</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">With the drawer all glued up and finger corners cut flush the drawer was ready to have the drawer slides mounted and fit into the stand. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqwRRcC0nmM8wd925mG7dT-dSjehww7KHdo_E51tMn6mDItBhbE_P8xj_OT0w22flP3kuMZ_dS9_nGWjE4IVyNx0hh2Zbkt_WFLxLqFsClEEExXiECawt3pxTQF4grrsyzOLcdtSgj4N1zdzscEukyY0LnD_gEt-Pe5YqI3aaAgOoK3Le0Z2X8HpOp5Q/s931/drawer%20box.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="632" data-original-width="931" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqwRRcC0nmM8wd925mG7dT-dSjehww7KHdo_E51tMn6mDItBhbE_P8xj_OT0w22flP3kuMZ_dS9_nGWjE4IVyNx0hh2Zbkt_WFLxLqFsClEEExXiECawt3pxTQF4grrsyzOLcdtSgj4N1zdzscEukyY0LnD_gEt-Pe5YqI3aaAgOoK3Le0Z2X8HpOp5Q/s320/drawer%20box.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Assembled drawer</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">I applied iron-on birch veneer edge tape to the plywood stretcher edges. When all the parts were done, and rough assembly was complete to verify fit, I took the bench into my utility room to help verify space and association to the PC work station. I might swap these two so the CNC mill will be centered on a wall rather than in a corner. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TJxAVM-ELCArSJy2mTrlyCUX5cx1PpGfpBw6Sbvy2vlDGe8qSbTxsmj7WSKtcjkubO9CQqYKsPXtvnwCGn-vQcJGeseOJLQcv1CaUigUtfiIkYwYyimiooqAPzIkSGr1xMiipRUYivCgs4_vSyVb_3Jmg4pOWco-1rc_uRkn4cEkeysS7TVwMnh8Zg/s978/Workstation%20setup.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="725" data-original-width="978" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TJxAVM-ELCArSJy2mTrlyCUX5cx1PpGfpBw6Sbvy2vlDGe8qSbTxsmj7WSKtcjkubO9CQqYKsPXtvnwCGn-vQcJGeseOJLQcv1CaUigUtfiIkYwYyimiooqAPzIkSGr1xMiipRUYivCgs4_vSyVb_3Jmg4pOWco-1rc_uRkn4cEkeysS7TVwMnh8Zg/s320/Workstation%20setup.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I addition to this milling machine I plan to add a metal cutting bandsaw and a metal cutting miter saw to this room. The bandsaw already has a base. The miter saw will need a bench to sit on. I ordered a ready made portable worksite stand for it from Amazon. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The CNC mini milling machine will arrive soon. The table top has been handy as I've been working on clearing out more space in this room for other metal processing tools. I need to clear off the table and apply 3 or more coats of finish on it to protect it. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Assembled the base was a little racked, and the drawer didn't close evenly. My hopefully temporary fix was a belt clamp between opposite corner legs. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">This table as intended is very stout and firm. When the CNC milling machine arrives I expect it to be happy mounted on this bench. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Questions and Comments are encouraged and welcome.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">4D<br /> </span></div>4DThinkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11368303705408227143noreply@blogger.com0