Drill Press X/Y Table

I previously made and used an X/Y table on my Delta floor standing drill press.  I've since sold that tool and replaced it with a Nova Voyager direct drive drill press. 

This post is about making a new (and improved) X/Y table for the new drill press. 

Nova Voyager Press

The previous table slid on 1/4" thick metal plate guides that slid in slots cut into plywood. With the leverage of threaded rods it worked well enough, but there is plenty of room for improvement. This version runs on linear slides salvaged from an old CNC project. 

A little sketching helped me visualize the assembly strategy.  There are 3 layers, a top, middle, and a bottom.  

Three Layers

1. The long rails mount on the bottom of the  top layer. 
2. The slides for the long rail mount on the top of the middle layer. 
3. The short rails mount on the bottom of the middle layer.
1. Four rails, 300mm long, were offset and used so the X/Y table could move forward 8.25". The 2nd layer is supported by 4 slides. 
4. The slides for the short rails mount on the top of the bottom layer. 
5. A removable fence mounts on the top rear edge of the top layer.
1. The fence/alignment strategy might mount on pins the drop into holes. 
2. The fence could be an L shape, with a short side and a longer side.
1. It could mount short side forward, or
2. Long side forward, or
3. Thickness edge forward. Perhaps the sides of the L fence are different thicknesses. Either thickness could be the forward edge. 
   
6. The height crank on the drill press needed to be accounted for.  Thus the notch in the rear right corner of the table. 
7. X and Y handles move with the table.  What they thread through is attached to the layer below. 
8. T-Slots running left to right on the top layer provide the best option for clamping parts down. Top layer is a sandwich of 12mm plywood with 5mm plywood between the tracks. The track is embedded into the 12mm layer so only 5mm sticks up. Track is .75" wide and .375" thick.  It works with both 1/4" and 5/16" t-bolts. One 48" long strip was cut in half to make two strips for the 24" wide X/Y table top. 
9. Strips of 1/8" thick plywood sit sandwiched between bottom layer and the drill press table. They account for the heads of the screws that hold the sliders to the other side. 

The bottom/last layer then was mounted to the drill press bed. I needed to screw up from under the bed into the bottom layer. There are square nuts embedded into the bottom layer's top surface.  8mm bolts screw up from below the table to hold the X/Y table in place. 

As I can move the top forward and back I see no reason to make the fence adjustable front to back, but it was  worth making it removable as well as variable in width and height. Fence yet to come. 

For the all-thread I used HDPE to make the blocks. One was drilled and tapped for the steel all-thread.  All were fit into CNC cut pockets for precise positioning and screwed in place. Between the bottom and the middle the all thread is flat on the bottom board.  I cut a shallow groove 1/16" deep below it using a 1/2" ball nosed bit it so it doesn't rub.  The second block is for the middle plate and collets to hold the all-thread in place. It took a bit of work after the CNC was done making it to get it to fit into the pocket made for it. Nylon washers are between the collets and the HDPE blocks. 

Y axis

X axis

Assembly started with the top.  T-track screwed into slots.  Rails screwed to the bottom. Collet block installed and screwed in place.  Middle layer installed by feeding it onto the all thread, and screwing it onto the slides.  Y axis rails screwed to the bottom side of the middle layer.  Bottom layer fed onto the all-thread, then screwed onto the slides.  

Last step was to mount this X/Y table onto the drill press table. 

Bolted down

The handles can slide off and be re-positioned if they bump into boards clamped to the table. The all-thread can also be turned quickly with a socket in my hand drill. 

This X/Y table makes positioning work more precise, and allows spacing a sequence of holes easy by counting turns of the handles. One 360° turn move the table 1/16". A half turn moves it 1/32".  A quarter turn moves it 1/64".   Sixteen turns move it 1". Eight turns move it 1/2". 

4D

My Push Button Quick Adjust Hand Screw Clamp

I'm a big advocate of push button releases on machines and hand tools.  The push button depth stop on my bench drill makes setting the depth simple and quick. The push button release on my CNC bed vises make opening/closing the jaws quick over 19 inches of jaw travel. 

Push Button Adjust Clamp

I have a couple of classic hand screw clamps, inherited from an Uncle. Both are rather slow to open or close the jaws for what needs to be clamped.  This project is my quest to make my own version that uses push buttons to release the 3/8"-16tpi threaded shafts for quick opening or closing. The jaws are 1" thick, just enough thickness for push buttons and the spring below them. 

Making this work with standard all-thread rather than left/right threads on the shafts was the tricky problem. To control the space between the jaws both screws needed to stay attached to both jaws. The threads can only be in one jaw though. The push button side is the threaded jaw. I needed to trap the thread in the other jaw so it can spin but can't come out. I also needed to allow the trapped ends to pivot.  It passes through a 5/8" HDPE rod that has #6-32 machine screws 90° intersecting the 3/8" hole where the grooves on the shafts are. 

HDPE Inserts and #6-32 Screws

I drilled the 5/8" holes through the jaws using my drill press. I cut the taper to the end on each jaw using my band saw.  My band saw removed most of the wood against the line I drew.  Then my disk sander sanded them down to the line.

I used the rotary axis on my CNC to make the grooves around the threaded shafts.  The bit used was a 1/8" diameter milling bit (4 flutes). I offset the bit by 3/16" and set X, then set Z on the top of the threaded rods, then set Y where I wanted the groove to be.  I turned on the router (set to its lowest speed), stepped Z down .01" then spun the rotary axis 360°.  Stepped down another .01" and repeated the 360 rotation until I was down .19" (a bit below center).  I checked the inner diameter which should have been .25" or a bit less. First try and the groove was a little too shallow   I jogged in .005" and repeated the above steps until the groove was deep enough.   Once I had a good groove on one shaft I repeated the same process on the second shaft. 

Groovy!

Sloped slots for the threaded rods were cut using the fluting toolpath in Aspire.  The shafts can pivot up to 30° either way. 

Sloped Slots

For the push buttons I started with an aluminum rod that was .76" in diameter.  I trimmed the ends square with my metal cutoff saw. Next I clamped the rod vertically in my CNC frame, and then trimmed the rod down to .75"d.  Next step was to mark where the 5/16"d hole needed to be, as well as where the bottom needs to be cut.  Both were done with the rod clamped horizontally in my CNC table vise.  I then removed the vise (with the aluminum rod still clamped tight) and took it to my drill press to drill the 5/16"d hole through the aluminum rod. Then I clamped the vise vertically in my bench vise and used a 3/8-16 tap to cut threads through the rod.  The last step was to open up the intersecting 3/8" hole next to the threaded hole using my CNC and a 1/4" end mill.  The toolpath started in the center of the threaded hole, then moved over to profile around the 3/8" hole.  No plunging into aluminum needed.

Aluminum Buttons and Conical Springs

Once all the details of the buttons were done I cut them off the ends of the aluminum rod. That was done at my cutoff saw. 

All the Parts

With all the parts done I assembled the clamp.  Conical springs in a centered recess below the push buttons keep the threads tight against the 3/8" shafts. Push the buttons down to release the threads and slide the jaws where you want them. Release the buttons to lock the jaws back onto the threads. It sometimes it takes a 1/2 turn of the handles to register the buttons to the threads and get the buttons to pop back up. 

Closed Tight

Wide Open

The sloped slots allow 30° of tilt in either direction. 

Angled Open

Angled Closed

This project was another interesting design challenge. Allowing the threaded shafts to pivot relative to the jaws took a few iterations, some research, and some creative CNC vectors to solve. 

I've already been using this clamp.  It delights me with how quick it is to adjust.  The handles were left overs from my CNC Vise design and may need a few iterations yet.  These work fine but a variation may be needed if I want to use the clamp flat on a table/bench. 

Comments and questions are encouraged and welcome.

4D  

New Updated CNC Bed Vise

My low profile CNC vise gets regular use,  It's only "flaws" are the limited opening, the slow movement of the jaw using a 3/8"-16tpi threaded shaft, and the moving jaw isn't attached to the shaft when backing out.  

This new vise design has a push button release for quick action, and a 19 inch opening for larger project boards. The jaws hold on to the shaft as it pulls back with a rare earth magnet. 

I made two bases using up-cycled 12mm thick baltic birch plywood with walnut veneer on the bottom side salvaged from an old coffee table top. 

Thickness of the jaws had to make room for the push button and conical spring below it. Button travel is close to 3/16" to push down an open 3/8" hole for the shaft threaded shaft. All vertical parts are a stack of assembled  layers. End jaw is two 12mm layers atop the 12mm base. The bottom layer that the shaft runs through is actually two 6mm layers.  Top 12mm layer on all pieces.  

Push Buttons

For the button I ordered a 3/4" diameter 12" length of aluminum rod to make the buttons from. The button shape was cut on the end with the aluminum rod clamped vertically. Next I clamped it horizontally and the CNC marked where to drill the 5/16"d hole and the bottom edge. My benchtop drill press cut the 5/16" hole.  I threaded the hole with a 3/8-16 tap with the rod held vertically in my bench vise. Then back on the CNC clamped horizontal to open up the 3/8" through-hole.  I hacksawed the button off the long aluminum rod, then put it back on the CNC to mill flat that rough end. It took a little filing and finagling to make the buttons slide easily.  

Button and Spring

I cut all the jaw and button end  parts from small pieces of 12mm and 6mm thick plywood. Alignment holes for 1/4" dowels were be added to each layer. 

The center hole for the threaded shaft needed to be perfectly placed. It was more precise to cut that center layer as halves from 6mm plywood.  A 3/8"d ball end bit cut the shaft slot in each. 

Rather than a stepped slide I chose a 14 degree dovetail slide. I used Teflon as the slide.  The center slot for the slide doesn't have to cut all the way through except in one spot where the slide can slip in to be attached to the jaw.  That spot was cut from the bottom side. Two flat head screws attach the Teflon to the moving jaw. 

Teflon Dovetailed Slides

The Teflon slides I cut at my router table with a 14 degree dovetail bit.  1.5" wide sections were cut from a longer strip. First test fit of each showed the slides were too wide.  I used my small hand plane to trim material off the edges until the slides slipped in and slid easily. 

Two 1.25" long flat head drywall screws attach the slides to the moving jaws. Action is smooth up and down the slot.  

The 1/4"d x 1" long rare earth magnets work to keep the sliding jaws attached to the threaded shafts.   

Rare Earth Magnets

Lastly sandpaper was glued to the face of the jaws for a much better grip on wood parts that are held in the vises.  Handles were CNC cut from a small scrap of dense white oak. 

White Oak Handles. 

These new vises will hold larger pieces of wood that will have the top surface carved/pocketed on them.   I can easily clamp the vises to my CNC bridges.

They also can be used on vacuum tables.  Hang the handle end over the end of the bed. The wide bases stays stuck in place. 

Comments encouraged!

4D

Variable Height Coffee Table

18 Inches Tall

This coffee table raises and lowers. The height adjusts from 14.25" to 18". 

The table is 16" wide and 42" long. The top of leg frames move in and out.  The bottom edges simply rotate in place. An intersecting panel maintains support of the top as it moves up or down. 

14.25 Inches Tall

A hand crank raises or lowers the table height.  The top of the leg frames remain attached to the underside of the table top as they slide. A HDPE slide in a T-slot connects to a barrel nut embedded into the top of the leg frames does that job. 

HDPE sliders

Inserts that pivot with an embedded square nut on one side, and two lock collars for the other side hold the ends of the hand crank shaft. 3/8-16 threaded rod. 

I haven't yet made or found a hand crank. I may make a nice one from hardwood.  The threaded rod  stays registered through one leg, and threads through the other leg. Spinning the shaft clockwise pulls them together lowering the table top. I used lock collars on either side of a pivoting insert. 

To allow the pivot panel to pivot I made four blocks like the block below. Twin tapered tenons wedge tight even without glue.  Adding some glue prevents them from ever dropping out. A nylock nut embedded in the pivot block keeps the screw from rotating/unscrewing as the leg rotates around it. 

Twin tapered tenons

In place and set back from the top sides this pivot bracket discretely does the job.

In place

Square blocks with 5mm pins inserted into their sides pivot in the leg panels as the 3/8-16 threaded shaft pulls them together or spreads them apart. Lock collars keep the shaft in place on the crank end. 

Nut Pocket Revision

With the nut dropping in from the top of the block, it can't come out if the threaded shaft it running through it. I made a plug to glue in over the nut, and another plug to fill the square hole in the other block. 

Test Pocket for Pivot Block

Two small blocks with a hole for the pivot pins, inset next to the hole.  They are 5/8" deep with the pin hole centered 3/8" down from the top:  

Pivot pins are trapped in place.

Thin plastic washers were needed to keep wood from rubbing on wood. I had to make my own as I couldn't find any the right thickness this size.

Plastic Washers

The steps needed to make the washers I've documented here: Making Plastic Washers.

I needed a link between the sliding slots to synchronize the movement of the leg panels.  I drew up and outline of the needed link plate and sent a DXF file to SendCutSend.com.  They sent me 2 copies of the stainless steel link plate I designed.  Just under 1/16" thick. The plate won't scratch the wood as it pivots as Teflon tape has been applied to the side between the plate and the underside of the table top

I chamfered the edges of the leg panels. I 3D printed end stops so the slides won't pop out.  Simple 1/2" diameter cylinders with a chamfered hole for a 1/2" long wood screw.   

3D Printed End Stop

Installed into the slot.

There remains a small danger potential. Over-cranking past limits may stress and break something.  I need to work on a way to indicate when to stop.  If the shaft was motor powered I could install limit switches. Adding a motor and Up/Down switches was considered.

The table was stood up and the top edges were profiled using a ball end bit and a roundover bit.   

15.5" tall.

The table can be set to any height including and between 14.25" and 18".  I don't anticipate changing the height frequently.  This table was more about solving the engineering to make it work than contemplating how it would be used. I leave that for the eventual owner to figure out. 

4D
 

Making Plastic Washers using my Lathe

I like to use plastic washers between wood parts that rotate relative to each other.  There are many available to purchase, but sometimes a thinner one or odd size is needed that isn't available.  For those times I use this strategy to make my own from plastic scraps easily found in most homes.  Plastic milk jugs, plastic CD or DVD cases, or other plastic packaging can be used. 

For my current needs I have roughly 1/32" (0.03125") of space between parts. I found a DVD case with a soft plastic cover that measured 0.0355" thick. This comes close and should work.  

First step was to make holes for the bolts.  Drilling into thin plastic sheets is problematic.  In this case I used a 1/4"d hole punch to make the center holes. 

First Punched Hole

To mark where to punch I put a strip of masking tape on the plastic, and marked out where I wanted each hole to be.

Row of  Holes

Second step was to cut the sheet into squares with a hole in the middle of each.  My rather dull kitchen scissors made quick work of this task. 

Squares with Holes

A threaded bolt, two hex nuts, and two steel washers with the plastic squares clamped between is all that is needed.  

Between two Nuts/Washers

Then a trip to my hobby lathe. 

On my Lathe

A drill chuck to hold the shaft of the bolt, and a few seconds to turn the plastic stack into round washers. 

Lathe Done

Once done on the lathe, the washers were removed from the bolt and tape was peeled off. 

Plastic Washers

I only needed four on my current project, but it only took a few seconds more to make eight.  That leaves four more I know I'll use up eventually on a future project. 

If you have a drill press but not a lathe, the drill press can also be used to spin and trim the squares down to nice round washers. 

I've used this strategy several times in the past, for my projects as well as for student projects. The secret is to make sure the center holes are snug on the bolt shaft, and that they are clamped tight together between metal washers and nuts on both sides.   

4D 

Replacement Trim made with my CNC

 

Pine Trim

A friend need a little trim to replace some that had rotted on her house. She sent a photo which got me close to the profile shape, but an actual section of the trim finalized the vector shape needed to cut it out using my CNC.  

End View 

The angled top and bottom edges I cut using my table saw after the CNC was done with the curved face on the right side.

She could find no commercial source that wanted to make such a small amount of what is apparently a no-longer made trim shape.  I had a pine board with fairly straight grain that was thick enough to cut the trim from. I cut the two strip shapes on one board, then separated them using my table saw.  

A quick job.  It was fairly easy to make the needed vector outline.  The CNC using a file created with the Moulding toolpath in Aspire had no trouble cutting the extruded shapes. 

4D

A Wood Mallet made from Wood Scraps

I've made a few wrenches from wood scraps.  Time now to see if I can make a wood version of a heavy steel mallet I have. Basically a small sledge hammer. 

I had a nice block of dense white oak for the head, and a section of hex shaped oak that was going to be the handle for a tool chest that made a good handle for the mallet. 

Using the CNC to cut the top details took some contemplation and experimentation. The hardest part was the chamfer around the edges. The easy parts were the top curved surface and the center hole for the handle. That hole was first drilled out at my drill press,  The CNC flared the top of the hole anticipating the wedge that will spread the tenon and trap the handle in place. 

White Oak Mallet Head

The old steel mallet is blessed with a nice patina and grace from being used and cared for over 5 decades since I inherited it from an Uncle. I'm sure he got good use of it over the time he had it. 

Old and New

Wood sealed

For a finish I applied tung oil on the red oak handle, and Danish oil on the white oak head.

Perhaps with time and use this wood version will acquire similar qualities. Time will tell.

4D